i was thinking about going to surf Backdoor the other day.  but when i saw the crowd on the camera, i changed my mind.  there were a hundred hungry surfers hunting down anything that broke.  

for 33 years of my life, i use to surf Backdoor on every single good day.  it use to be crowded like this so it was basically work.  so now, i look at this and say “no thank you, i’d rather foil an ocean all to myself.”  

another photo of 2007.  Kelia was only 14 years old.  

and last night when i went to see Kelia’s baby, i thought how time goes by so fast…

a couple years ago, Eri-chan gave me this in Japan.  i had it and never used it.  so when i went to take a shower last night, i took it, scrubbed it all over my body and hair.  strangely, there were no soap suds.  i thought it was weird but Eri-chan gave me weird organic stuff before so i used it anyway.  then when i was finished with scrubbing my body, i remembered something.  that wasn’t soap, it was wax!!!  omg, i scrubbed my body with surf wax!  haha.  i can’t wait to tell her the story.  haha…

Early morning surfing is the best!

Good morning 4:20am.
North shore head high and good.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sun, clouds, showers, and maybe stormy.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

paddled out in the dark and my goal today was not to fall.  caught 7 waves on my foil and never fell once!  mission accomplished…

then loaded up the bikes and headed to the mountains.  my goal today was not to fall.

ok, i’m not going to lie, i fell twice.  haha.  and it hurts 10x more than falling in the water…

but luckily, i didn’t fall off this cliff.  nobody would survive that…

my sister and i went from the bottom of the mountain to the very top in 20 minutes!  we were full throttle the whole way up!   last time it took us 45 minutes so i guess we’re getting better.  yeah!!!