it’s been a full year since the last time i traveled.  that’s pretty long considering i use to travel about 10x/year.  and the more i think it’s going to happen soon, the more i’m not sure.  the coronavirus is getting worst worldwide so it seems like nobody is going anywhere anytime soon.  so in the meantime, i can just travel in my mind.  and i can see myself sitting on the side of Toda-san eating all his yakiniku and making jokes.  haha…

then Mori-san sends me this photo of us boys traveling in Taiwan 2 years ago.  Taiwan has some of the best night markets in the world.  weird food but so delicious…

life rolls on here in Hawaii.  it’s good to see business continuing to do business.  i was watching this crew taking photos for a Crazy Shirt ad.  everyone wearing masks and social distancing.  pretty cool to see people being responsible…

one thing this pandemic taught me was how to foil better.  i’ve been going almost everyday so i can feel connected to the ocean more than ever.  and when you get better at something so challenging, life gets better too…

so i finally watched the documentary about the false missile alert in Hawaii.  some guy pressed the wrong button?  OPPS?  are you serious? so everybody on land had 38 minutes to think about their life.  people thought they were going to die so ever since then, some lives changed for the better.   yeah, sometimes it takes a near death experience to change your outlook on life.  you never know when it’s going to end so may as well enjoy every single minute, and every single breath.  i’ve been doing that for 20 years now and it’s a wonderful way to live.  try it…

Bee Kind…

Good morning 4:45am.
North shore still huge. 6-8′ and cleaning up.
Ala Moana chest high and perfect.
Diamond Head shoulder high and perfect.
Light winds so clean morning conditions. Afternoon onshore breezes.
Sunny and warm after this cool morning.
Going to the sea.
Have a wonderful day!

so far, i’ve been doing super good this year of spending every sunrise in the ocean.  today was yet another beautiful morning…

we were totally surprised because there was a new swell!  these swells are actually from that huge North/West swell we have now. they are wrapping all the way around the island so it’s pretty perfect.  tomorrow should be bigger and better!

i foiled a bunch of waves, then sat on the side and took some photos because the lighting was so beautiful!

when i got came home, i saw a lost dog in my yard.  i went out to call him and he came towards me.

as he was coming to me, he stopped and lifted up his leg and took a pee all over my rosemary plant!!!  omg, i was so pissed!

about 3x a week, there are rescue helicopters flying in and out of my valley.  they pass by my house making so much noise and i know exactly where they’re going.  see that top ridge in the way back?  that’s where everybody gets hurt because it’s super dangerous.  then it’s impossible to hike your way back down because it’s too steep.

each rescue costs the government thousands of dollars.  and not only that, it jeopardizes the safety of the rescue guys.  so please be safe.  if you’re not super fit to go up this mountain, don’t go because it’s very dangerous.

anyway, going to sleep by 7pm because tomorrow will be perfect somewhere in town.  i’ll see you there!