when a wave comes in, you should share.  so one guy going right and one girl going left on the same wave is the way to do it.    

and when you surf this spot every single day like this girl, you know exactly what to do.

this is a very nice bottom turn.  i had to get out of the way before she ran me over so this is the last photo of the sequence.  

OMG, i accidentally dropped a lens from my car down the gutter!  

so i was sticking my head down the side and trying to grab it with all different kinds of tools.  nothing worked!

so i had to open the 80lbs. manhole cover and stuck my head down there too.  i’m actually pretty scared going down to small spaces like that.  so i had an idea! 

i used a tongs!  then i was able to stick my head and arm down and squeeze it.  i was so happy!

but i learned something very important.  next time there is a missile warning, i’m taking my family down this drain and waiting till it’s over.  this is probably the safest place to be!

Biggest swell of the Winter coming today!!!  Please be careful!

Good morning 4:45am.
HIGH SURF WARNING FOR NORTH/WEST SHORES!
15-25′ and very dangerous!!! 50′ faces by this afternoon!!!
Ala Moana chest high from the West. Some spots bigger!
Diamond Head head high and perfect.
Super clean morning conditions.
Light winds.
Sunny and warm.
Going to the ocean.
Have a wonderful day!

another morning of happiness.  paddling out in the dark and waiting for the sun to rise while i’m flying around the ocean on my foil.

then i have to stop and take a photo of this breathtaking view.

surprise!  another day of the swell from the North shore wrapping around the island to the South.  it was bigger and better than yesterday.  everybody was so happy!

i’m loving life on the South shore because head high waves feels like 20′ waves for me.  same speed and just as dangerous.  so yeah, pretty exciting!

lots of empty barrels too.  i was hoping nobody rode this one because it looks better being unridden.

then i went to Diamond Head in the afternoon and had an even better session.  tonight will be my record for sleeping the earliest. 6:30pm will be goodnight for me.  tomorrow morning i’ll be the first out in the ocean!  goodnight…