Another beautiful day in paradise…

Good morning 5am.
Ala Moana knee to waist high and offshore. Little bigger on East wind swell.
Diamond Head head high and wild.
Strong trade winds at 25mph.
Sun, clouds, rain, and huge rainbows. Cool winter weather!
Have a wonderful day!

 i try to do things by myself.  even when people offer to help, i say “no, i can do it.”  so here i’m trying to put this tall and heavy ladder back to where i got it from. seemed simple.  just use my legs to prevent hurting my back… then i got it off the ground and it was way heavier than i thought.  my back started twisting the wrong way…my friend kept on asking me “do you need help?”  i kept on saying “no, i can do it.”  i ended up dropping the ladder.  haha.  and after that, my back was sore for a week.  haha…

check out this cool photo Matsu sent me.  look good and you will see Enoshima and Mt. Fuji in the background.  i use to go there in the evenings to watch the sunsets.  i miss surfing and hanging out at Inamura.  and i miss you too Matsu… OMG, look at Princess Leia!  she’s so cute!  i can’t wait to take you surfing little Princess!  “I am sorry for the things i said when i was hungry.”  this is funny!  and this is so true.   if you know me, i say and do stupid things when i’m hungry.  all men do.  haha…