FREEDOM!!!

Good morning 4:20am.
Ala Moana waist high and perfect.
Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going dawn patrol.
Have a wonderful day!

from November to February, we call it winter here in Hawaii.  the weather changes everyday and you just don’t know what to expect.  you can paddle out in the morning while it’s pouring rain. then 10 minutes later, the sun will pop out and paint you a colorful rainbow.

then mid-day, it could be raining, or it could be postcard perfect like this.  you can paddle out to Waikiki and find empty waves all to yourselves.

then as the day comes to an end, you can head to the beach and watch everybody enjoying the beautiful sunset time.  then go home, sleep, and do it all over again the next day.  and this goes on day after day for our wonderful winter season…

form the look of this photo, it doesn’t seem dark, but it’s actually pretty dark.  so dark you can only see a step ahead.  i seen some surfers using a flashlight to get down the mountain at Diamond Head.  i try to use sense and feeling.  one little step at a time.  it’s like hiking in the dark which can be pretty cool…

and recently i’ve been sitting on the beach waiting for the sun to show.  watching it from the ocean is amazing, but watching it from the beach is amazing too.

blue and orange rays.  a start of a very beautiful day!

this year has had to be the best Summer for consistency.  there’s been waves every single day! i was craving ginger chicken so i went to eat my favorite ginger chicken plate.  i’ve been eating this ever since i was in high school and i never get disappointed.  so good!