during the lockdown, this is what it looked like at Ala Moana Bowls every single day, all day long. so many surfers going in and out of the water. my friend said he counted 20 guys paddling out at once. OMG! but now that shops are opening up, it’s only half this bad…
foilers are pretty funny. totally hooked on this new hobby. i heard of guys spending all their unemployment money on equipment, i heard of guys quitting their jobs, and i even heard of guys breaking up with their girlfriends. haha. and the funny part is that they don’t regret anything because foil is their new girlfriend. i can totally understand! haha…
and when the foilers take control of a spot, it’s over. i actually feel sorry for surfers…
one of my friends from Bowls told me he’s going to start foiling. i told him, “your life will never be the same. right now you won’t understand what i’m saying, but once you fly, you will…”
just read this cool article of Seth Moniz talking about the scariest wave he ever surfed in his life. it’s some secret spot in Central America. when he was telling me about it a while ago, i had no idea the wave was this thick! that’s crazy!
Early Bird…
early morning session for me again. paddled out at dark and rode endless waves like a free bird! 
amazing sunrises day after day…
then i checked the waves this afternoon and i couldn’t believe it! a lot of empty parking stalls, nobody on the beach, new South swell, lot’s of waves, and no locals! i grabbed my shortboard and went surfing! super fun and super lucky session. yeah!
one guy came up to me and said “wow, that’s sexy!” i was surprised because i thought he said that to me, but he was actually talking about my foil board. haha… but yeah, it is pretty sexy…
