Surfer Frenzy…

Good morning 4:15am.

Ala Moana chest high and perfect.

Diamond Head head high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

wow, another beautiful morning in the ocean.  we paddled out super early and it was totally dark this morning.  no moon so you won’t see a wave until it breaks on your head.  haha.  but it’s good to wake up like that…then when it got lighted, all the morning crew came out for this nice South swell!Mia on a good one following the sunrise…my new early morning surf buddy.  all she kept saying was “i’m sooooo happy!!!”locals Lance Hookano and Tommy Chung-ming paddling out early too.  these 2 guys catch everything so even though they’re my friends, i don’t like surfing with them.  haha.  i counted 10 locals in the lineup so you had to wait your turn today.  these are the moments i live for.  when the sunrise lights the sky up like it’s on fire, it’s unbelievable.

8pm now and just foiled until dark.  from sunrise to sunset.  a lovely day!  goodnight…

during the lockdown, you are allowed to fish just as long as you’re fishing in the water like this.  if you fish from the beach, you will get a ticket.  and if you fish too close to others, you will get a ticket too.  so this is what you call “social distance fishing.”i was paddling out and seen these 2 girls taking off on the same wave.  so i stopped and watched.once they started holding hands, i could see one of the girls getting ready to jump.she jumped on her friends board and the timing was perfect.  notice that she kicked her own board to the side so it doesn’t hit them.  smart!then from here, it’s all about balance and looking forward.these girls pulled off the perfect tandem.  then they were giggling the whole ride.  so cool to see people enjoying life to the fullest…