Welcome to our new South Swell!  Yeah!!!

Good morning 4am.

Ala Moana chest high sets and perfect.

Diamond Head head high and good.

Light trade winds at 15mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going foiling.

Have a wonderful day!

i woke up at 2:30am, ate breakfast, exercised, and went foiling.  it was so peaceful while the whole island was asleep…foiling is pretty dangerous, but foiling in the dark is more dangerous.  i can’t see where i’m going, i’m just going with the flow.  if somebody is out there, i wouldn’t be able to see them so better stay out of the way.  haha…using the lights for guidance, but most of the waves i was closing my eyes and foiling blind.  it’s so peaceful…then watched the sky turn orange and i was done.  went back home to take a nap…then got back up because when there is a new South Swell, i can’t sleep!  i went out to Kaisers and the waves were the best it’s been in a while.good to see everybody having fun.  dangerous fun…seen some of the boys out foiling.  it was such a beautiful day!then looked down towards Waikiki and not a single soul on the beach.  we’re still in lockdown and nobody knows when it will be over.  so in the meantime, keep calm and live in the moment…

the older i get, the earlier i wake up.  i guess that’s a good thing because i cherish these moments while most people are still sleeping…and when a young surfer starts to fall in love with these moments, they will live a happier and healthier life.since i can’t travel, i can only reminisce.  Kimura-san, Eri-chan, Naoka, Kyle, and i getting ready for a room party deep in Wakayama.  i think we were pretty loud that night.  haha.  i miss trips like this…19 years ago we caught a huge swordfish on a boat trip in Indonesia.  it was on the way back from an amazing trip so that was the icing on the cake…Fiji Boat Trip:  if it wasn’t for Tokura-san, i’d probably be a salaryman in Tokyo.  i guess you can say that he saved my surfing career, and also probably saved my life.  i never forget the people that changed my life so much.  i’m a very happy man today because of him…