Blue Hawaii…

Good morning 3:20am.

Ala Moana waist high and perfect.  Bigger than yesterday!

Diamond Head chest high and good.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sunny and warm.

Full moon foiling.

Have a wonderful day!

omg, went for a full moon surf this morning.  got a very unusual text at 4am “hi, i want to go surf with you.”my little princess wanted to try.  it was the first time in 18 years i took her so early in the morning.  and when she caught her first wave in the pitch dark, she was so happy!after every wave, she paddled out with the biggest smile on her face.  and then she told me “now i know why you’re so happy everyday.”  haha…glad you got up early girl.  an glad you understand why nothing bothers me all day long.  how could it?  i haven’t ridden a longboard since the lockdown.  i actually had so much fun because i could catch every single wave in the ocean and look for the barrel again.  yeah!!!  it was a very beautiful morning in Hawaii.  i love it…

we’re in lockdown again so there are no boats in the ocean.  i feel like i’m like the only one out there.  it feels so FREE!  anyway, i pull up to Kaiser’s and see some really nice waves to foil.  so i throw the anchor and get a few.i don’t remember the last time i saw a tourist in the ocean.  it’s just us locals enjoying Hawaii the way it use to be…just a short paddle and i’m in the lineup.  i’m going to start to practice jumping off the boat and foiling to the lineup.  that’s my next foil goal…i can tell the turtles are happy not be be chased around by hundreds of tourists every day too.  they look like they are in peace…i can’t jump off and foil to the lineup yet, but i can catch a wave and foil back to Mayuki.  once i get my new foil, i plan to jump off with the foil, foil into the lineup, catch a wave, then catch 5 more, then ride the last one to Mayuki.  that would take about 10 minutes and it will fulfill my entire day.  i can see it happening very soon…