want to thank Matsuo-san for sending me these photos of Akazawa-san’s paddle out in Chigasaki.  i feel so helpless for not being about to go to Japan, but it was cool because i could feel him in the water here in Hawaii.  the ocean is where surfers souls are kept, and the ocean is where we will all come together someday.  once again, goodbye my friend…i told Matsuo-san, “when it’s my time to leave this beautiful earth, please do the exact same for me.”  i want my friends to paddle out to which ever ocean is near, give a shaka, smile, and remember the good old times.  exactly like this…

The Lonely Hilton Hawaiian Village…

Good morning 4:45am.

Ala Moana waist high and perfect.

Diamond Head chest high and good.

Light trade winds at 15mph

Sunny and warm.

Going foiling.

Have a wonderful day!

 during the lockdown, i get to see what the kids are cooking for themselves.  this looks delicious!  foiled the past 2 evenings until pitch dark.  it’s so amazing…  from 4pm every single day, there have been over 40 surfers out at Bowls.  it’s literally turned into a Waikiki!  no rules, no manners, no respect, and lots of accident.  so yes, i don’t feel bad at all foiling through everyone because they are more dangerous than me.  a beginner actually told me “wow, your foil is dangerous.”  i told him “no, you are dangerous.”  haha.