woke up at 2:30am again because i was too excited to foil with the boys!  i got there super early but the North Shore boys were already there in the dark.  haha…Peter King had his good camera gear today so i’m sure he posted some cool stuff on his instagram.  he told me today “hey, you have an instagram account dude.”  i told him “no i don’t.”  he said “yes you do, i saw it.”  i don’t believe him…i was in the water watching the sunrise.  then Glenn Pang came flying right by me.  it was such a beautiful morning and now you know why i don’t want to miss a sunrise…then came back to town and jumped on Mayuki.  passed by Kewalo’s and the waves looked super fun.  filled up Mayuki.  and because of the lockdown, gas is super cheap!  cheaper than gas stations.  lucky me!  i pull up to Three’s, the waves were super perfect.  i started foiling and the 3 guys that were out got irritated so they went in.  thank you guys because i had a blast without you guys out there getting in my way.  haha.  been getting calls from my nephews all week.  “hey uncle, the winds are going to be light on Friday.”  i replied “so what?”  haha.  but i know they want me to take them diving so i got my gear ready.  then came home to load up my truck.  meeting the boys tomorrow morning at 4am.  they know that if they show up 1 minute late, i’m leaving them behind.  so i’m sure they’ll be ready for our adventure.  goodnight.

How to be Prepared:  throughout my traveling experience, i learned that you have to be prepared for anything.  i went on about 100 surf trips around the world competing for the best photo with a bunch of pro surfers.  if you get the best photo, you will be published in magazines around the world.  that was my job and i took it 100% seriously.  before i leave Hawaii, i’m already preparing.  how?  first, i take 5 surfboards in a big surf bag so i make sure every single board has my sponsors stickers, make sure it’s waxed, and make sure i have a leash attached to at least one of them.  then i put my surf trunks in my backpack with the fins.  then when we land, i watch and make sure my surfboard bag is on the top with the zipper facing up so i can easily access my surfboard where ever we go.  so on this particular boat trip in the Philippines, we were cruising around islands searching for waves what nobody knew existed.  as we round this one island, i see a big left point break wrapping around the island.  everybody is excited watching the waves and i’m running down to my room to get my backpack.  before we even pull up, i grab my board out of my bag, put on my fins, and jump off the boat when it’s still moving.  being the first guy in the ocean surfing a wave that’s never been surfed before was a dream to me.  so i paddle out, analyze the waves and reef, and i’m ready.  i take off on my first wave and get the barrel of my trip.  i had it all to myself.  then 20 minutes later, the wind comes onshore and it’s over.  i go back to the boat and see some of the other surfers still putting stickers and wax on their boards.  of course i didn’t say anything because i was still super competitive at the time.  i did that for 30 years and i still do that till this day.  if there’s a golden opportunity, i’ll be the first one on it…

Every morning I can see the sunrise…

Good morning 4am.

Ala Moana waist high and good.

Diamond Head chest high and good.

Light trade winds at 15mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going secret spot.

Have a wonderful day!