sat on the beach in the morning thinking “um, waves too small to shortboard, tide too low to foil, what should i do?  then i remembered i have my custom 5’10 Momotaro that was made for days like this.  i grabbed it, paddled out, and had one of the best sessions in a while. thank you Momotaro for flowing so gracefully.  if it wasn’t for you, i’d still be sitting on the beach wondering what to do.  haha. Les has been surfing Rockpiles his whole life.  everyday he will be down there sweeping the parking lot, raking the leaves, and just being a cool local.   good to see guys like this giving back to our surf spots…saw the news of yet another free diver found dead on the bottom of the ocean.  this time it was Australian Olympic Snowboarder Alex Pullin.  only 32 years old and his whole life ahead of him.  he probably had “shallow water blackout” and once again, it makes me really think about the dangers of free diving.  i know it can happen to me anytime i put my mask on. but i also know that us free divers know the dangers and will be content on when our time is up.  so maybe that’s why we live each day like it’s our last.  and only a free diver will know that feeling…

Flying Hawaiian:  Endless Summer Rides…

Good morning 4:10am.

Ala Moana waist high and good.

Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going to the ocean.

Have a wonderful day!

 the last time i went spearfishing was a long time ago.  but since i had to go out and clean up Mayuki, i thought i’d try to catch dinner before i started cleaning.  i took my time and chose carefully.  and when i seen this prized uhu swimming by, i couldn’t resist.  i took only one shot yesterday, and this is what i got!  so i cleaned the boat and Maki-san cleaned my fish.  this is called teamwork!good job guys!  keep smiling and keep diving.  good to see the happy smiles… then came home and did some yard work.  Mateus watered the plants and we picked fresh gardenias.  he brought it in my house and kept on smelling it.this is this face after smelling it.  haha.  when he starts school again, i’m going to tell him to take some for his teacher.  then maybe she won’t scold him as much.  haha…