Secret spots for lucky people!!!

Good morning 4am.

Ala Moana chest high sets.  Bigger than yesterday.

Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.

North shore epic!

Trade winds 25mph today.

Sun, showers, and rainbows.

Going North!

Have a wonderful day…

i get a call this morning from Uncle Brian, “kirby, where are you?  the waves are going off up here on the North Shore!”  i jump on the freeway and was there in 40 minutes.  i pulled up to the beach and it was super good!  nobody out, long rides, and a foilers dream session… after i went foiling i stopped over at Uncle Brian’s house because he wanted to give me fresh fish.  we ended up talking story for a while and had a great time.  Uncle Brian is one of the most respected surfers on the North Shore.  when i foil in town, i get stink eye sometimes because surfers don’t like foilers.  but when i foil with the North Shore boys, nobody even looks our way.  they all go in.  haha.  i’m sure i’ll be getting another call early tomorrow morning.  and if i do, i’m going straight out there again!   thanks Uncle!then came back to town because i had an appointment with the girls.  they wanted me to take them out on the tube.  it was the perfect day for that!  i’m sure their bodies will be sore for the next week again.  haha.

**just heard the Governor pushed the lockdown back until July 31.  that means no Japanese or tourists are allowed back before then.  when will this nightmare end???

you will only get to see things like this once in your lifetime.  the whole entire Hilton Hawaiian Village Hotel totally closed.  it’s still kind of weird driving by everyday looking at it so empty.  but when it reopens, i’m sure it will be busier than ever because the whole world misses Hawaii…i was sitting and waiting for a wave thinking to myself “here i am surfing perfect waves at 5:30am.  the sun is rising from the East, the moon is setting to the West, and there is a freaking rainbow too!  this has to be a dream???”