South Shore Surf Culture…

Good morning 5:30am.

Ala Moana waist high and good.

Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 25mph.

Sun, clouds, showers, and rainbows.

Going to the sea.

Have a wonderful day!

what i like the most about Ala Moana Bowls is the unpredictability.  the wave will come in looking perfect but it’s actually not.  some break fast, some slow, some closeout, some back off.  it took me years and years to figure out that wave and i still can’t totally figure it out.

what i like about Big Rights is the predictability.  the wave is so perfect  that i can tell before taking off if it will barrel or not.  if it barrels, you simply pull in.  and if it doesn’t, you simple do the biggest turn of your life.   either way, it’s all good!

wow, the sunflower fields are blooming!  just seeing this beautiful flower makes me happy…

yesterday’s sunrise was one of the best in a while.  all the colors came out right before the sun came up.  as i was foiling, i felt like a free bird roaming the beautiful skies of Hawaii.  it was amazing…been surfing a lot in the morning so decided to foil.  the tide was super low but if you keep the foil high, you can still clear the reef.  and instead of taking turns surfing with 20 guys, i could take off on any wave i wanted.  i felt like i was the only one in the ocean…while i was on the South shore, Donald was on the West shore.  of the 30 years i’ve been surfing with him, i’ve never seen him this stoked on a wave.  it’s funny how the foil brings out the kid in all of us.  this is the kind of faces we use to make in Elementary school.  haha…