Morning Speed Blur…

Good morning 4am.

Ala Moana waist to chest high and good.

Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.

Waikiki waist high and perfect.

Trade winds at 15mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

the swell is coming down but everybody is still happy.  i surfed 2x today.  one at 5am and one at 5pm.  low tide surf, and high tide foil.  dream life…i remember last Summer when my Indonesian friend Tim invited me on his new boat.  this is his new boat.  or should i say, this was his new boat.  since Japan can’t film new dramas because of the coronavirus, i heard they are replaying old ones.  my friend sent me this and i was so happy to see Tokiwa Takako!  she knows that i loved her character.  “Aishiteru to utte kure” is my all time favorite Japanese drama.  i learned how to speak Japanese watching this drama.  and i became Tokiwa Takako’s number one fan.  if i saw her in person, i would probably melt…i had this photo sitting on my desktop.  it is of Seira-chan on one of her very first free dives.  she was so calm, so cool, and so relaxed.  i can look at these kinds of photos over and over.  it’s just so beautiful!

the last swell was amazing.  surfed the Bowl early morning and look how beautiful it was.  check out Greg getting barreled in the Big Bowl…omg, this documentary popped up on my Netflix so i just clicked on it not knowing what it was about.  it’s called Holy Hell and about an American cult.  i was so shocked to see the insides of what happens in cults.  the story was well put together because the beginning was a happy one, then it turned bad really fast.  and then the end was the worst when i found out this cult has moved right here in Hawaii!  they still operate till this day in Kailua and it’s scary to think this guy is still getting followers.  to all my friends in Hawaii, hide your kids and stay away from this guy.  you should watch it to be aware of what’s going on right here in our backyard…