during the biggest day of the swell, i get a text from Donald “where you going foiling today?”  then i get one right after from Fabian “where you going foiling today?”  my reply was “i ain’t foiling today.  i’m going to go get barreled!”  as i’m getting the perfect barrels at Big Rights, guess who i see paddle out on their surfboards???  yup, Donald and Fabian.  haha…i got the first wave of the set, i get barreled and pull out.  then i see Fabian on the next one getting ready for something you can’t do on a foil.  barrel ahead! omg, this wave was so good!  i was screaming!!!  glad you boys came out because if you didn’t, i’d tell you all about the best day of the year you missed!  and now that the waves came down, let’s go foil!Fabian was ducking under this wave and got a sneak peak of me taking off.  no barrel shots for me this day but the barrels will be etched in my memory for years to come.  it was one of the biggest and best Big Right’s i’ve ever surfed in my life!  can’t wait for the next swell…

on the big day at Bowls, i paddled out in the dark with Mike Ho.  on the way out, we were talking about surfboards.  talking about how short the boards people are riding now days.  30 years ago, we would be on a foot longer boards on big days like this for sure.  Mike Ho is a legend.  if he paddles for a wave, don’t even try it.  the local boys know that because of the respect for him.  only the idiots paddle for his waves…if you want to get barreled on the smaller days at Bowls, bodyboarding for sure.   the barrels are oval so you have to ride on the top part of the wave.but if you want to get barreled on the rights, you have to look around and you will find lots of barrels on the South Shore!  this day i had the best barrels of my townie life out there…got a text from one of the girls:  “omg, my body still hurts!”  i texted her back “never tell me to go faster.”  haha…

June 3, 2020 was The Day at Concessions Lefts…

Good morning 4:45am.

Ala Moana chest high and good.

Diamond Head head high and bumpy.

Waikiki chest high and perfect.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Rainy morning and sunny afternoon.

Going to exercise.

Have a wonderful day!