it seems like the crowds are thinning out.  been surfing Bowls early mornings and the locals are back in control.  thank goodness…wait!!!  since when did this hot dog tent pop up in front of the shower at Bowls????  are you serious?  i don’t like to see things like this on our public beaches… for the past couple months, i’ve been trying to get Matt on thicker boards.  he’s an old school surfer so likes thin boards.  i keep explaining to him that thicker boards equals more waves caught.  and more waves caught equals more stoke.  then we see Matt out at Bowls with his thin board.  Carter tells him his board is too thin.  then Matt says so me, “ok, i want to order a thicker board.”  haha.  sometimes it takes 2 people to change ones mind.  Matt is 70 years old and when he finds the right board, his life will change forever…Carter hasn’t foiled in months.  but he picked up right where he left off.  stoke!  i always use Asayama-san as my example for older guys.  he was 68 years old when i took him out to Pipeline/Backdoor.  lots of confidence, and more importantly, on the right board.  thick and easy…  i still remember this day very clearly.  it was Asayama-san’s dream to surf Pipeline, and it came true.  not too many people can say that in their lifetime.  so yeah, dreams to surf the most dangerous and famous surf spot in the world do come true…

Yesterday Evening:  Walking into Summer…

Good morning 4am.

Ala Moana chest high and perfect.

Diamond Head head high and perfect.

No wind so clean morning conditions.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

Gen needed to tune up his gun so he came over.

most of the good spearguns are made out of teak wood.  so if you take care of it, it will take care of you forever.

i could have done it for Gen, but he wouldn’t learn a thing.  so now that he did it himself, he can do it forever.  now his old speargun looks brand new again.  and as you can see, he’s happy about that…

a good surfer, a good diver, and just an all around good kid…

as for me, i’ve been foiling.  went this afternoon with Carter and it was super fun.  new South swell?  i think so!  waves came up and expect some head high surf tomorrow.  see you in the water!