Diamond Head surfing days…

Good morning 5:30am.

North shore knee high and perfect.

Ala Moana chest high and getting better later.

Diamond Head head high and wild.

Dirty water everywhere!

East winds at 20mph.

Clouds and heavy rain.

Going surfing when it cleans up.

Have a wonderful day!

the waves were stormy and junky today so i asked Seira-chan if she wanted to go with me to check out the waves this evening.  because you can learn a lot about the ocean today.  checking out wild Diamond Head.  the total opposite from yesterday…

then we went to check out Bowls and when i seen these 3 tourists, i knew we were in for some free entertainment.  first, these girls probably rented boards across the street, headed to Bowls, and didn’t know what they were in for.

they were on the beach contemplating whether to go out or not.  my advise would be “don’t go out!”  shame on the surf shop that rented them those boards knowing there are no lifeguards here.

i told Seira-chan to watch carefully.  this is how you learn.  and this is how you understand the ocean.

the girls decided to go out.  so i wasn’t leaving the parking lot because i knew the ocean could take one, or even all of their lives.  and i knew that nobody would be watching out for them.  so yeah, we stayed and watched…

i told Seira-chan to watch how they paddle and you will know their level instantly.

so yeah, the last girl was a total beginner and had no idea what she was in for.  Seira-chan knew that and she also knew that once she passes that corner of the rocks, the current was going to take her to the right…

i already knew what was going to happen.  but i wanted Seira-chan to learn from other peoples mistakes by watching.  so that’s what we did.  rest of the story coming tomorrow…

back to talking about the Surf to Aloha event held at Kewalos’ by Kewalo’s locals.it was a very good turnout.  stoked to see locals supporting locals.omg, i remember when Kewalo’s use to look like this back in the 1980’s.  our parents use to drop us off and we would hang out there all day long.  surf and make trouble.  haha…pretty happy to see my nephews supporting the locals that saved Kewalo’s from development.  Joshua on the left, Seth and Isaiah on the right.  good boys!it was fascinating to hear the stories from the old time locals.  Carissa Moore and Seth Moniz talked about localism and treating the Uncles with respect.  both of these surfers are welcomed anywhere around the world so that tell you something.  one of the Kewalo’s boys came up and explained how Kewalo’s use to be.  if you drop in, you get punched out.  that’s the part i love about surfing out there.  absolutely no clowns…so happy to take Seira-chan with me because this was a very important topic for every one of my students.  i always teach them respect because if you respect others, they will respect you.  simple… a message from Mr. Duke Kahanamoku…super happy to see Seth Moniz showing up and representing Hawaii with so much respect.  everybody always tells me how respectful Seth is where ever he goes.  to me, that is more important than how he surfs.  in Hawaii, respect is everything.  if you show respect, you are welcomed.  but if you don’t show respect, please feel free to leave our island.  simple…