My everyday sweetness…
Good morning 5:30am.
North shore knee high and calm.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head head high and bumpy.
Box jellyfish!
Light trade winds at 10mph.
Storm, rain, clouds, and humid.
Going surfing.
Have a wonderful day!
omg, i was watching the waves all day long and it was terrible. then all of a sudden, i pick up Nakahodo-san and he says “rockpiles is starting to get good. i can see it from my hotel.” so we head there and it was better than good! it was excellent!!!
Seira-chan came along and rode some really nice lefts!!! the waves were the best since she got here a month ago! we scored! 
i’d say head high sets and long lefts off from Rock Piles rights. 
Nakahodo-san just arrived from Okinawa today and was ready for the challenge. riding a wave was the easy part. paddling out and having 50 waves breaking on your head was the hard part. 
smooth, glassy, nobody, and big! this happened for only 2 hours of today and we were right there!
the winds turned offshore and it started to barrel. Rockpiles never barrels like this! it was amazing…
Nakahodo-san on his last ride of the day. when he came in, he said “wow, Hawaii has a lot of power.” yeah, today was one of the best days in my life i’ve seen Rockpiles like that. i felt like i was in Indonesia…
on the way home, Nakahodo-san gave me this Chivas Regal whisky from Japan. i wanted to open it up and take a shot because i was so dam happy! haha.. maybe we’ll do that tomorrow? haha.
oh, and wanted to thank Tatsu-san for the senbei! 
and want to thank Tomami-san for the snacks.
Tomami-san harvested her own rice and i can’t wait to try it. first i’ll go spear a fish and then make sushi. yeah!!!
story continues from yesterday: i tell everybody that “when in doubt, don’t go out.” these girls were in doubt on the beach, but they went out anyway. and right when they passed the rock corner, as expected, the wind and current took them to the right.
and in less than 5 minutes, the current took them down to the channel. not a safe spot to be as a beginner…
we got out of the truck and walked closer to keep an eye on the girls. i told Seira-chan to just look at their faces and you will know if they’re ok or not.
they were swept down and fighting the current and wind trying to get back. it took them a while, but luckily they made it back. if the winds were 5 knots stronger, none of them would have made it back.
these girls are lucky they made it back to the beach safely. you could tell they were relieved.
it’s days like this where people lose their lives in the ocean. i’m still baffled at surf shops that rent out surfboards to beginners. so next time you go surfing, remember that “when in doubt, don’t go out!” simple…
