Epic South swell in February!

Good morning 6:50am.

North shore shoulder high and junky.

Ala Moana shoulder high and good.

Diamond Head overhead and bumpy.

Trade winds at 25mph.

Heavy rain in the morning cleaning up later.

Going surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

 another epic early morning.  today we took the longboards and had intensive Boot Camp.  Seira-chan knows what to do which is, once you do the beautiful bottom turn…. then walk the board.  this is how you’re supposed to ride the longboard. and in the 3.5 hours we were out, we seen so many rainbows.   it’s Seira-chan’s dream to live in Hawaii so it’s better to start making surfer friends already.  the more friends, the happier surfing time… after riding 30 waves per day, cross steps will become natural like this.   and when you can do it in style like this, life is good. walking on a surfboard will riding a wave?  i think that’s so cool…good job girl.  things are looking so natural and confident.  whenever you tell me how happy you are, i feel the exact same way.  smile… i was teaching Mateus how to do a headstand.   and he just pops up and does one.that’s the cool thing about being young and flexible.  good boy Mateus!

i can’t believe how popular ONO SEAFOOD has become.  this use to be a little hole in the wall where only locals knew about.  now, it’s a a main tourist attraction!   but it’s still super good so nobody’s complaining.  especially not us…i told Renta-kun that he will suffer in the beginning.  but when he figures it out, he will have the time of his life…and i also told him never to do this!!!!  only surfer girls can do this and look cute.  this is not for boys!  Mateus was so excited to surf.  he even helped me wax the board.i’d rather him wax my surfboard than draw pictures with crayons on my dinner table.  haha.as we were paddling out, Mateus was waving to everybody.  and everybody kept on saying how cute he is…i always take my time with kids and wait for the perfect timing to get to the outside.  if we get tipped over on the way out, any kid will say “i want to go in.”  so yeah, i’m taking my time and Mateus says “why are you taking so long Uncle?”  i think he was really getting bored.  haha.  but once we got our first wave, everything was worth the wait.  look how happy he is!  perfect form and perfect smile.  good job Mateus!