4 days of Boot Camp and this is a new man!  Sasaki-san came to Hawaii to surf, improve his skills, and go back a happy man.  this morning was absolutely the best conditions ever!  look how glassy it was!  and look at the moon! it was picture perfect!  Sasaki-san never surfed dawn patrol before but now he has for 3 consecutive days.  each day different, but so beautiful.  i couldn’t help catch a few waves because nobody was near us.  then the rain comes and look at this gift from mother nature!  thank you Sasaki-san.  so stoked to see you surfing much much better!  calm and cool…then went to check out Diamond Head because i had a feeling it was going to be good.  and guess what?  it was better than good!  nobody was out at Cliffs which was weird???  where was everybody???picked up this girl from the airport and we were surfing 1 hour later in perfect waves and weather.  it was surreal to her that she came from Japan which was just snowing in Tokushima the other day.  anyway, welcome back to Hawaii Seira-chan!

 i came home yesterday morning at 8:30am from surfing.  i was planning to go foiling after but Mateus was at my house so i asked him “hey, you want to hang out with Uncle?”  he said “yeah, i want to hang out with you.”  so forget foiling, i hung out with Mateus! i told him to lets go look for bugs and feed it to Pepper.  yeah, every little boy loves to dig up bugs so it was perfect.  he grabbed a broom and a container and we went looking for bugs.  look how excited he was! remember when i planted this gardenia plant when Mateus was born?  well, it’s been giving us hundreds of sweet flowers every year.  right under it we found some bugs! we were getting all muddy but who cares.  boys will be boys…after we found 4 bugs, we went to go feed Pepper.  and Pepper loved it!  thank you Mateus for feeding my chicken.  can’t wait to hang out with you again.   love you boy…

Another early morning session today.  I can’t wait!

Good morning 5am.

North shore 8-10′ and very dangerous. Junky conditions.

Ala Moana knee high and strong offshore winds.

Diamond Head chest high and strong offshore.

North winds at 25mph.

Morning rain becoming nice and clear later.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!