Winter Boot Camp

Day 3 Boot Camp and it was the same thing as yesterday.  moonlight we paddle out but today was much different.  windy, cold, and challenging…

while everybody was complaining how cold it was in the parking lot, Sasaki-san and i put on our warm wetsuits, positive thinking, and had a super fun time alone in the sea.  it’s days like this that make the strong even stronger…

just to get out was a challenge, and the ride even more.  but when it’s all done, you feel super content.  a feeling of overcoming your anxiety and flowing along with the sea…

and it’s days like this when you just don’t know what to expect.

yeah, a beautiful rainbow just for the 2 of us.

Sasaki-san was super stoked and when we got in, we were the 2 happiest surfers in the world.  haha.  i actually saw one of the local guys still sitting in his car contemplating whether to go out or not.  all that time, we rode 10 waves and had the time of our lives.  we were laughing all the way home…

then i came home and Mateus came over for a snack.  so i gave him some Japanese french fries.

he loved it!  haha.

i was making lunch so i asked him if he wanted to eat spaghetti with me.  he said “uh, i love spaghetti.”  gosh, this kid makes me so freaking happy!  we went outside looking for bugs, took a walk, ate snacks, and i tickled him until he couldn’t take it anymore.  haha…

Brotherly Love

Renta-kun’s been surfing a lot with me and he got super good.  he brought his younger brother with him and showed him how to be confident and cool.  Ojiro-kun is only 11 and is loving life.  always smiling and always enjoying the rides like this.it was the first time i took these 2 boys surfing together without their Dad.  i was so happy to see them push each other to get better and better.  just in this one session, these boys pushed each others level up another notch.  i was just laughing and loving it…from being scared of the ocean to becoming very confident, that’s something so nice to see.  i’m so proud of these kids.  and proud to see older brother teaching his younger brother how to be cool…Ojiro-kun was paddling into his own waves.  i think he wanted to after seeing his older brother do it!this was the best wave of his life!  after, Ojiro-kun asked me “did you take the photo?”  i said “no, sorry i missed it.”  he said “omg, you are joking right?”  haha.  hey Ojiro-kun, just joking, i didn’t miss a thing!  good surfing boy!

February 10, 2020 Hawaii Surf Report

Natures flash light…

Good morning 5am.

North shore 3-5′ and super junky.

Ala Moana chest high onshore wind swell.  Challenging conditions.

Diamond Head shoulder high and strong side offshore winds.

North/West winds at 20mph.

Sunny and cool.

Going to surf.  Only the strong survive.

Have a wonderful day!