i couldn’t believe how stormy it was yesterday.  it was so strong that the rain was stinging our eyes.  but i love days like this because only the strong take the challenge…Renta-kun was hesitant at first, then once we got out, he said “wow, this is cool!”  and so was he…Renta-kun lost his board because he didn’t put on his leash right.  i watched him lose it and i was happy to see him staying very calm.  no panic at all.  that’s exactly what all our Boot Camp is for.  it’s about keeping calm in any situation…i was so happy to be back in the warm ocean.  i heard the past week was windy cold, and rainy.  i don’t think people in Hawaii understand what cold is.  try go to Korea now.  haha…surfing and style getting much better.  Renta-kun wants to learn how to foil, so i’m getting him prepared for that.  if you like seafood, Korea is seafood paradise.i was fascinated with these shrimp swimming in the tank.seafood is so amazing to watch, and then to eat…

Watch closely, and listen to the soundtrack.  Absolutely incredible!

Good morning 5am.

North shore head high from the North.  Bumpy.

Ala Moana chest high from the East.  Side offshore.

Diamond Head overhead and choppy.

Trade winds at 25mph.

Clouds, rain, and maybe sun later.

Going foiling and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

made my last round in the streets of Busan.  stopping often and checking everything out.fresh abalone!  i wish we had these in Hawaii!  then i’d be an Amasan!then watched the WQS contest in China online.  lots of people thought Shun Murakami winning the contest was unbelievable.  but not me.  i always knew this kid had it in him.  when he was 9 years old, i use to compare him to Seth.this was Shun’s biggest contest win of his career.  and now he’s starting off 2020 ranked #1 on the WQS!  good job Shun! i was sitting at the airport in Japan and heard “all flights canceled to Manila.”  omg, there was an eruption!  and to think that was one of my options on this trip.  gosh, i’d be stuck there! came back to Hawaii and it was pouring rain.  i had to ride my motorcycle from the airport so i was soaking wet!!!  but going at 55mph and having 30mph trade winds straight at me, i was feeling the 80mph (130km) raindrops stinging my face.  this is the best cure for jet lag!  haha!  then went surfing in the pouring rain with Renta-kun.  Renta-kun went back to Japan for the holiday season so was stoked to be surfing again.  i came back from 4C or 39F freezing cold weather so i was even more happy to be back surfing again!

i took this video of Shun Murakami when he was only 11 years old.  i brought him to Hawaii a couple of times and had him hang around the Moniz kids.  i wanted him to have Hawaiian lifetime friends, and i wanted the Moniz kids to have Japanese lifetime friends.  this is the rainbow bridge between Hawaii and Japan i dreamt my whole life about.  so to see this kid win a huge contest yesterday, i was very very happy.  at 11 years old, his dream was to make the WCT.  so was Seth’s.  so yeah, now it’s your turn Shun!  please be the first Japanese to ever do it!!!