Today is the last sunset of 2019.  Don’t miss it…

Good morning 5:30am.

North shore 15-18′ and dangerous.

Ala Moana chest high sets but high tide and little bumpy in the morning.

Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

i taught another young kid how to surf today and hopefully this will encourage another young mind to connect with the ocean.  it went from fear, to fun.  now we have another newborn surfer in this world.  and that’s my goal…and look at this kid foiling today at Bowls!  so stoked to see this local kid trying new things…went to the yacht club and saw the coolest Japanese boat!  omg, i love it! then took some special guests for an experience of a lifetime.  whenever i have my speargun, this Mu’s don’t come near.  but when i don’t, i could poke them with a chopstick.   the smartest fish in the sea…we found some turtles and had a wonderful time swimming with them…it was another day with a family that was here on a secret vacation.  no problem for me because i can keep secrets.  i ask everybody why it’s a secret and you would be surprised at the answer.  i will get into that later because today was too beautiful to have any negative thoughts.  anyway, at the end of the day, the Mother and Father told me “today was priceless…”  i love to hear things like that.  i was driving home feeling so content, and this is the way i want to close off the year of 2019.  just like every year, i want 2019 to be PRICELESS…

seen this Japanese girl getting really good waves at Bowls in the evening.  she is a friend of a friend so i took a few photos of her.  hope these find her…

amazing surfing Chihiro-san!

came home and needed some fuel.  i was craving my crispy seafood noodle special.  so i turned up the heat and started creating my lunch.

i just love these kind of noodles!

then i poured my seafood and vegetable mix over and it looked so good!

a little vinegar and a lot of hot mustard.  it was excellent!

now i had enough fuel to paddle out my 5’6 twin fin and had the time of my life.

can you believe it’s almost the end of 2019?  better get your last rides of the year soon if i were you.  i sure am…