Life is Sweet…
Good morning 6am.
North shore 6-8′ and growing to 15′ later tonight.
No Eddie Aikau contest tomorrow. Not big enough.
Ala Moana chest high and good.
Diamond Head head high and bumpy.
Trade winds at 20mph.
Sunny and warm.
Going surfing and turtle snorkeling.
Have a wonderful day!
i get a lot of people coming to Hawaii to surf with me that’s not supposed to be here. a lot because they either took off work, or because of the jealous people back home. i don’t care what reason it is, all i care is to make their secret Hawaiian vacation worth more then the expected. here is my friend Aya-chan getting the ride of her life yesterday evening… and no, her name really isn’t Aya-chan. haha…
then this morning, i had 3 other surfers that aren’t supposed to be here too. here is one of them. Kai-san on the ride of his life. and no, his name really isn’t Kai-san. haha…
this surfer took his vacation and came to Hawaii to surf! his name is Uehara-san and there’s no secret. he just wanted to get better at surfing so we did some Boot Camp and he was ripping by the end of the session!
after 4 years, Uehara-san learned today how to keep calm and enjoy each second of each ride. and now he’s reborn! that simple!
every single surfer in the world just needs a little advice on how to surf better. and when they take that advice and apply it, a whole new world opens up. and let me say it’s even more beautiful than you could ever imagine!
and you will smile like this on each paddle back out… good job dude!
i’ve been having a lot of sunrise and sunset sessions recently. the best way to start a day, and the best way to end a day…
this guy i don’t even know came up to me and said “can you please take a photo of me and text it to me? my phone is in my hotel.” sure, here it is dude! and i hope you’re not here on a secret vacation too. haha…
the very first time i flew on a helicopter, i honestly was very nervous. they crash all the time here in Hawaii and that wasn’t a secret. but it was a trip of a lifetime with very important people in my life. so yeah, why not. i remember planning the trip with the pilots and asking them for things that have never been asked before. when i told them the course i wanted to take, i remember the owner saying “we’ve never done that before.”
i’ll never forget flying over the tallest waterfalls in the world. it was amazing!
i think i was the most excited person of all. we had 8 of us with 2 helicopters weaving in and out of each other. it was like a video game…
