this is absolutely my favorite street to take every morning.  i can see the waves, i can see Molokai, and i can see my dreams…this morning, i could even see Lanai!  the air was crisp, chilled, and i knew the waves were going to be good!when you pull up to Diamond Head expecting small waves, it’s a treat to see something like this.  line after line of perfect waves.  and it’s already December??  it was a brand new South/West swell and the best Diamond Head i’ve seen all year.when i got out, it was uncrowded, doubling up, and even barreling.  a couple of my friends that surf out there every single day said “wow, this is as good as it gets!”  i agree…foiled and didn’t want to go in.  watching the sun rise and flying like a bird is something so surreal.  i was a very happy bird this morning!  then came home and lifted heavy rocks.  we’re building a new wall so we had to gather these big rocks.  such a good workout!  then ate a custom pizza for lunch.  very juicy and very delicious…

anyway, Pipeline Masters is probably 100% ON tomorrow morning at 8am.  i’m getting up early and heading out there to cheer on Seth Moniz!  the waves should be big and powerful.  can’t wait…

yesterday, Renta-kun learned some new English.  “Get the FU@K out of here!!!”  i’ll tell you how, but first, let’s take a look at his surfing.  super calm and super nice style.

i taught him a few new things yesterday and he figured it out pretty quickly.

what i can’t teach this kid is about localism.  but Renta learned it anyway.  he caught a wave and crashed into a local guy.  the local guy was super mad and started yelling at Renta.  i was watching from far and as soon as i seen the guy paddling aggressively towards Renta, i yelled at him and said “ehhhh!  stop!!!  what you doing!!!”  the guy was still mad and yelling and yelling.  so i yelled back in a calm, but firm way.  i made the guy know that if he was going to do anything to Renta, he would have to come through me first.  the guy backed off and went in.  Renta was a little shocked but i explained to him that the guy was wrong so don’t worry.  and i also explained to him that this is why i try to teach you surfing the proper way.  and also why i don’t recommend you surfing by yourself yet.  if i wasn’t there, this guy probably would have beaten you up.  it happens all the time and this is what i try to explain to newborn surfers.  when i’m there, you’re safe.  when i’m not there, you’re on your own.  so driving home, i told Renta that he was lucky to have a wonderful experience like that.  he laughed and said “get the fuck out of here!”  haha.  that’s what the guy was yelling and i think Renta will remember that for his whole life.  so yes, Renta learned about localism, and he also learned some crazy English.  haha…

And Diamond Head ON too! Everywhere and everything ON today!