Mateus:  The Cutest Kid in the World…

Good morning 6:10am.

North shore 1-3′ and coming up.  Super clean conditions.

Pipeline Masters on Standby.  No morning start, but maybe start later today.  Tomorrow guarantee!

Ala Moana waist high and good.

Diamond Head chest high and perfect.

No wind so nice morning conditions.  Afternoon onshore.

Sunny and warm.

Going foiling.

Have a wonderful day!

last night i get a text from one of my friends.  he gave me the surf report for the East side so i made sure i got out there before the sun rose.  so yeah, i woke up at 4am and left my house right after 5am.  super excited for something new!

when i got to the beach, i couldn’t believe how beautiful the sunrise was!!!  and the waves were super beautiful too!

yoga is not only about body, it’s also about mind.  it’s something that can calm me, and it’s something i do every morning.  whether it’s in a room, or on the beach, you just have to connect your body with your mind.  and when you can do that, life will be much better…

even thought i thought i surfed every single wave on this island, i’m finding out i was wrong.  the foil has brought me to waves i’d never thought was there.  so this morning, it was a new experience for me and i loved it.  i thought i went on a surf trip to some exotic destination far away.  but this one was only $10 of gas and 30 minutes away from my house.  lucky me…

when i picked up Renta-kun for our afternoon session, he told me that his ankle was sore from playing basketball.  i told him “don’t worry, it won’t hurt once you get into the water.”  after we got out, i asked him if his ankle still hurts.  he told me “oh, i forgot about it.”  haha.  The Ocean Fixes Everything!

the Pipeline Masters was off today, but tomorrow is looking 50/50 that it will be on.  then Tuesday and Wednesday 100% for sure as a huge swell is on the way!  Go Seth Moniz!!!

 throughout the years, i’ve visited the most famous tree in the world about a hundred times.  it’s the Hitachi tree that’s located in Moanalua Gardens.  it’s a must see attraction for almost every single Japanese tourist.  i even hugged the tree a few times.  when i use to take people there, i would go together and enjoy the moment.  BUT, for the past few years, i heard about all kinds of car thefts so i’d wait in the parking lot and watch the surfboards and valuables in the car.  this past Thursday, a Japanese tourist was walking back to her car when a man from behind started approaching her.  look at the guy in the white shirt.then he ran towards her and snatched her bag!  so the Japanese woman and friends chased the guy to the Toyota Tacoma getaway car.  the guy got into the Tacoma and sped away.  and while doing that, he actually ran over the lady!!!  a 49 year old Japanese tourist woman didn’t need this to happen.  i feel so sorry for her.  what’s happening to Oahu????

so once again, here is my advice for all tourists coming to Hawaii.  when you come here, leave your designer bags and valuables back in Japan.  you don’t need it here and nobody cares anyway.  and when you go out, just take a couple things with you and leave the rest at your hotel.  if you’re walking around with a Louis Vuitton bag and a Rolex watch, you are a target!  but if you’re walking around with a Whole Foods eco bag and a cheap watch, nobody will bother you.  sorry but this is the world we live in.  either adjust to it, or take the chance of being robbed.  simple…

by the way, the lady is recovering, and the guys that robbed her and ran her over still didn’t get caught…