December 8, 2019 Hawaii Surf Report

Look back ONLY if you see a Rainbow!

Good morning 5am.

North shore 3-5′ from the North.  Good!

Ala Moana waist high and clean.

Diamond Head chest high and clean.

Honolulu Marathon so roads closed.  Traffic!

East side going off.

Sunny and warm.

No wind.

Going East.

Have a wonderful day!

Hawaii Five-O and Surfer Poll Style

pulled up to Diamond Head this morning and there were no cars!  there were no parking signs up but it said no parking on Tuesday.  yeah!  broken glass on the ground means that somebody’s car got broken into.  glad it wasn’t mine!???  two signs saying two different things?  yes, this is Hawaii!  haha.  i parked my car, walked all the way down to the beach, then my friend Carter said the sign says we can’t park there.  so we walk back up the mountain.  bummer….   i really wanted to foil but no parking!  then Hawaii Five-O shows up.  one policeman is my foiling friend so i ask him “hey, can we park here?”  he said “yeah, no problem, i’ll watch your car.  lucky!  so we went out and went flying!  the 2019 Surfer Polls are in!  glad to see all the boys and girls representing Hawaii!  and guess who won Best Women’s Style?  yup, Kelia Moniz!  she beat out super stylish surfers like Stephane Gilmore, and Alana Blanchard.  but i wasn’t surprised because Kelia is all about style both in and out of the water.  so proud of you girl!

STD CA and ROOTS

there is one very good restaurant in Tokyo.  so good that i dream about it when i’m in Hawaii.  super fast, super cheap, and super good quality…all they serve is grilled fish and i love grilled fish.  very simple, and very healthy…passed by Standard California.  always good to see Akudo-san and his happy staff…when i use to take Josh and Seth free diving when they were kids, i use to make them do everything.  i made them dive in caves, dive with sharks, hold the dead fish while i’m diving, and made even them clean the fish.  it was all in the plan to give these kids as many experiences as possible.  i wanted to be there for everything in the beginning so they did things the right way.  so looking back at the old photos i took, i just laugh.  i’m pretty sure they must have thought i was crazy, but little do they know, they’re doing the exact same thing right now.  and actually, i feel sorry for their own nephews and nieces because i’m sure they will teach them the same way they learned.  haha…