Pipeline Masters surf forecast:  Probably start on Monday!  Yeah!!!

Good morning 6:10am.

North shore 3-5′ from the North and getting bigger.  Laniakea good!

Ala Moana waist high and clean.

Diamond Head chest high and good.

Light East winds this morning becoming variable all week.

Sunny and warm.

Going foiling.

Have a wonderful day!

went to celebrate Marissa’s 18th birthday.  a very special girl i’ve known for 18 years.throughout the years, i took her surfing, diving, hiking, fishing, Molokai, and so many other activities.  this girl is like a daughter to me and i love her so much.  she knows she’s always welcomed at my home anytime, and knows that she can always come to me if she needs anything.  i watched her grow into a fine young woman who now works and goes to college.  and i’m looking forward to watching her as an adult too.  you throw her into the ocean and she can survive, you throw her into the mountains and she can survive.  one of the toughest 18 year old girls you will ever meet.  and also one of the sweetest.  Happy Birthday Marissa!  wish you a fantastic life ahead… Marissa’s still too young to drink alcohol.  but i’m not.  haha…omg, we had 4 orders of these fresh oysters.  it was amazing!  went to Diamond Head and the waves looked super fun.  the winds are backing off tomorrow so it will be even better for the upcoming week.  it’s almost the end of the year so it’s time to fix and upgrade my house, and my life too.  so when 2020 comes around, everything will be fresh and exciting!

 every morning i get up, i do some yoga.  i start off with stretches and poses, then end up with this pose, pincha marasana.   it makes me super happy, super energetic, and super connected.  and when i leave my house, i feel like i’m ready for anything and everything.  this morning, i thought i’d take a photo of my pose to see if everything is aligned right.  in this particular photo, i thought it would be better if my arms were more straighter.  so i try again… i tried it again and lost my balance.  and when you lose your balance in a dangerous pose like this, it’s pretty scary.   i totally spun around and started falling backwards.   i hit the wall super hard and came crashing down.  and this was still 5am.  haha.  just like surfing, you can never perfect yoga.  it takes practice and practice.  but when you fall down, you just gotta get up and try it again.  maybe tomorrow….