Underwater fantasy world…

Good morning 6:45am.

North shore 3-5′ from the North.  Super bumpy.

Ala Moana waist high and clean.

Diamond Head head high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 25mph.

Sun, clouds, showers, and rainbows.

Going foiling.

Have a wonderful day!

 Monday morning session with Mukaitsubo-san.   waves were good again.  long rights that are perfect to practice cutbacks.   it’s been a few years since we surfed together to it was intense Boot Camp again for Mukaitsubo-san.  and he was ripping! look forward and keep calm.  then i’ll get the shot!   and after i get the shot, i’ll keep on going on and on and on.  it’s crazy how i can foil, shoot, and enjoy the ride all at the same time.   clouds keep lots of people at home, but not us surfers.   good surfing equals happy people.  big smiles! thank you Mukaitsubo-san for the cool surfing and warm pho.  keep on surfing! and last, look at the beauty of Hawaii…

 Ogawa-san came to Hawaii for the first time.  he wanted to surf in Hawaii and i’m glad he emailed me.  if you saw or felt the waves we got yesterday, you wouldn’t believe it.  there were just 2 of my other surfer friends out sharing the Sunday afternoon together.  he caught 20 waves!  so yeah, this guy scored!

 i don’t think he knew about my Boot Camp, but once you surf with me, you’re automatically enrolled.  so yeah, you could imaging me screaming from behind.  haha.

 and if i could scream from underwater too, you know i would.  haha.

 Ogawa-san got married in Hawaii one day, and had his dream surf session the next day.  i’m sure these will be 2 days etched in his mind forever.

 all my foil friends have been asking me where i’ve been???  i tell them, i’m still and always will be a surfer guys.  foiling is amazing, but you won’t get this direct connection feeling with the ocean on a foil.  and it feels great!

 i hope Ogawa-san doesn’t think the waves are like this everyday, because it isn’t.  this day at this spot was as good as it gets.  he was just at the right place at the right time.  lucky guy.  and want to say hi to Megumi-san and compliment you for being a very kind new wife.  letting your husband surf the next day of your wedding is the biggest gift in the world.  your surfer man will love you forever for that…

 when i’m in Japan, i always request to sit at the counter.  and even when my friend or friends are trying to talk to me, my attention is what’s happening behind the counter.  i was watching this girl pouring beers all night long.

 she would pour a beer like it’s art.  pour, let it sit, take out foam, add in foam, and won’t serve it until it’s perfect.

 perfect like this!   i was told that 70% beer and 30% foam is the perfect pour.  omg, i had one, then another, then another, then another.  if i didn’t have to leave, i would have sat at this counter all night long…