Ogawa-san came to Hawaii for the first time. he wanted to surf in Hawaii and i’m glad he emailed me. if you saw or felt the waves we got yesterday, you wouldn’t believe it. there were just 2 of my other surfer friends out sharing the Sunday afternoon together. he caught 20 waves! so yeah, this guy scored!
i don’t think he knew about my Boot Camp, but once you surf with me, you’re automatically enrolled. so yeah, you could imaging me screaming from behind. haha.
and if i could scream from underwater too, you know i would. haha.
Ogawa-san got married in Hawaii one day, and had his dream surf session the next day. i’m sure these will be 2 days etched in his mind forever.
all my foil friends have been asking me where i’ve been??? i tell them, i’m still and always will be a surfer guys. foiling is amazing, but you won’t get this direct connection feeling with the ocean on a foil. and it feels great!
i hope Ogawa-san doesn’t think the waves are like this everyday, because it isn’t. this day at this spot was as good as it gets. he was just at the right place at the right time. lucky guy. and want to say hi to Megumi-san and compliment you for being a very kind new wife. letting your husband surf the next day of your wedding is the biggest gift in the world. your surfer man will love you forever for that…
when i’m in Japan, i always request to sit at the counter. and even when my friend or friends are trying to talk to me, my attention is what’s happening behind the counter. i was watching this girl pouring beers all night long.
she would pour a beer like it’s art. pour, let it sit, take out foam, add in foam, and won’t serve it until it’s perfect.
perfect like this! i was told that 70% beer and 30% foam is the perfect pour. omg, i had one, then another, then another, then another. if i didn’t have to leave, i would have sat at this counter all night long…
Yesterday I was getting barreled! Today I will too! Can’t wait…
all morning, it was raining and super windy. so when i picked up this wonderful couple, they asked me if the weather was going to clear up. i told them “this is Hawaii, it can change so fast.” so paddling out, it was still dark, but once you’re in the water, who cares right? 
Hanafusa-san started off walking the board perfectly. wind, rain, clouds, and it still looks so beautiful! 
then Shuka-san went next. smiling and enjoying the ride. after this wave, she said “shiawase.” that means happiness…
then the sun peaked out and the rainbow showed up! no rain, no rainbows right? 
i love stormy days like today because nobody wants to surf. it’s empty and when you’re out there alone enjoying something like this, it’s unforgettable. 
we keep on surfing and surfing. and the rainbow didn’t go away for 2 hours! Hanafusa-san loving the rainbow ride…
after my 2 days in Japan, i feel reborn again! so yeah, i’m probably feeling just as excited as everybody who comes to Hawaii to surf with me. happiness plus happiness equals a pure happiness. add a rainbow and this is a dream…
husband and wife coming to Japan and enjoying the ride, the stoke, the moment, and the rainbow. these 2 caught over 40 waves total this morning. it was just us and any wave we wanted…
Shuko-san surfed perfectly. look how beautiful this is!
they wanted to eat burgers, so we went to Teddy’s Burgers! the juiciest burger in Hawaii. thank you guys for the amazing morning…
then i went back out this afternoon with Ogawa-san. i knew the waves were still going to be perfect, but i didn’t know that nobody would be out on this beautiful Sunday afternoon. i hope it rains tomorrow too! haha…
