Boot Camp Day 3 with Tomami-san started off this morning. up until now, i would assist her into some waves, but today, i told her “you’re on your own!” so every wave she caught, she did it all by herself. that’s amazing…
and when you can surf 100% with all your effort, it feels 1000% better…
gosh, it was another perfect day for the beach. good for an outer island trip on Mayuki! hopefully soon!!!
so sad to see rubbish in the ocean, especially plastic. please pick up your trash everybody…
some of my friends said the waves were small this morning, but not too small for us! this would be the wave of the day in some parts of Japan. so yeah, we’ll take it!
right after we finished our morning session, Tomami-san asked if we can surf again this evening. haha. she’s addicted to surfing!
so i went to fuel up on some food. pancakes from Liliha Bakery. loved it!
then back out this afternoon and the waves were still super fun. nobody out again and we had this spot to ourselves!
more waves and more happiness. thank you Tomami-san for the great time in Hawaii. see you next year with the Pavilion Surf Club Team from Shikoku. keep on surfing!
surf and dive. that’s a combination for a great life…
been working on Mayuki. buying parts and finding out it’s the wrong size sucks! omg…
and when you close the lid on your finger, that sucks too! ouch…
Oosawa-san is from Ibaraki. he hasn’t been surfing too long so this lesson was about style. since the waves were small, i just told him to ride it and go with the flow in style. just like this!
imagine coming to Hawaii for the first time. arriving in the morning, surfing in the evening. watching the sunset and riding the longest waves in your life. must feel good huh?
yeah, this surfer boy was loving his life. so stoked to be in Hawaii and surfing at the famous Ala Moana Bowls…
good surfing and good style Oosawa-san!
last Christmas Eve, David was on the brink of losing his life. but God said it wasn’t his time to go. some people in this world gets a second chance, some don’t. just something to think about and it can make anybody appreciate each and every day a lot more. even i learned how to love my life even more since that day…
David hasn’t ridden this board ever since that day, 12/24/18. so bringing it out yesterday must have been emotional for him. i think that is great that he rode it because that’s called “moving forward.” surfer and board connecting again. an amazing story with a happy ending…
Ocean’s Treasure…
