super happy to surf with Kanda-san today!  it’s been a year and he’s been practicing back in Japan.  and it showed today as he was surfing flawlessly… gosh, i had a great time following close behind and watching the amazing rides! perfect surfing Kanda-san!  and good to see you again! then picked up Megumi-san and went to Chinatown.  it was their first time and i think they were totally culture shocked!  haha.  this place isn’t for everyone because it’s dangerous, scary, and the service is pretty bad.  seems like you’re in another country…  then went to pick up Ishikawa-san who was fresh off the airplane.  we had a blast this afternoon!  i was watching Seth’s heat last night and totally heart broken to see him lose.  i’m sure Borack and Rainos felt the same way.  it was just too hard for me to watch and i couldn’t sleep after because i was thinking how Seth must have been feeling… had a BBQ last night and couldn’t keep my eyes off this sweet little girl.  Kaira is the cutest!  she’s looking like how Kelia looked when she was 2 years old. everybody asked me today where i’ve been.  i said “i’ve been flying high in Bali, eating good food, and getting 3 hours massages everyday.”  then all of a sudden they weren’t smiling anymore.  haha.   no, this is not a Komodo Dragon, this is a very colorful gecko on the Big Island. can’t wait to go back…

Endless Summer @ Ala Moana…

Good morning 5:30am.

North shore chest high and good.

Ala Moana chest high and good.

Diamond Head shoulder high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sunny and warm day.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

 i love suckling pig so thought i’d try another local restaurant out.    same pig, but much different style of meal.  it was pretty good, but not as good as the one i’ve been going for the past 30 years.  but at $3, i can’t complain…  this is my favorite.  super deep and super local.  just pull over on the street early morning and find a little illegal pop up stand like this.   i ordered a nashi champur for breakfast.  this one only cost $0.35.  that’s 40 yen and this price hasn’t changed for the past 30 years.  no inflation here because the locals won’t buy it.   i’ve been using a driver for many years in Bali.  mostly because it’s so dangerous to drive on the streets.  it’s actually crazy.  but this time i needed a new experience and wanted to challenge myself.   and omg, it was crazy!  it’s like one of those video games you play but if you crash here, you don’t lose points, you die… imagine waiting for the light to turn green, then imagine how many cars and bikes will enter this intersection.  then imagine trying to make it across?   thank goodness i survived a week of this.  no accidents this time…  and next time, i’m going back to my driver.  haha…