so happy to see Oshima-san back in Hawaii.  and so happy to see him surfing so good!   i had my foil so i could see everything!  look how beautiful this wave is!   Oshima-san was surfing really good today.  he’s connecting to the ocean and loving the rides.  such a pleasure to see him ripping… i’m loving the rides too!  haha… i can’t believe we started off on the 11’0 longboard, and now we’re short boarding together!!! i drove past the Aloha Aina event and couldn’t believe how many people were there!  there must have been over 20,000 people and i’ve never seen a march through Waikiki like that in my life!  i had chicken skin watching it… then had to do some work on Mayuki so took her out and did some snorkeling first.  so happy to see the turtles swimming so freely!    it was late in the evening so the turtles were sleeping.  so cool to watch them being so calm.  good thing i took my spear because this Mu’u swam by me.  then he tried to swim away so i speared him in the butt.  dinner for 2!   then a barracuda was trying to watch me from far away.  he shouldn’t have come that close because now he’s dinner too… then went back to enjoying the turtles.   it’s crazy how unpredictable the ocean can be.  i didn’t expect to see or get anything today but i came up with dinner and treasure.  so happy!

up until i was about 10 years ago, i use to always look back.  look back and think how i could have done things differently.  look back and regret things.  look back and get down on myself.   honestly, i thought i was happy but when i think about it, i really wasn’t.

what changed?  a lot.  from the natural disasters happening around the world, to loved ones lives just ending in a second.   those things made me realize how short and precious our lives are.  so now, i never look back.  all i look is forward and try my best to do and be the best i possibly can.   so yeah, life has been good and much more happier.  i still make mistakes and always will.  but i’ll get right back up and learn from it.  it’s actually kind of cool, and kind of interesting.  and so is my life now…

Don’t Look Back, You’re Not Going That Way!

Longboard daze…

Good morning 5:40am.

Ala Moana waist high and clean.

Diamond Head chest high and good.

Light trade winds at 10mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing and foiling.

Have a wonderful day!