Big Barrel @ Big Rights!

OMG, I love surfing again!!!

 was so happy to see Nakahodo-san finally controlling the foil, and not the foil controlling him.  haha.   now that he’s at this level, things will only get better.  how beautiful is this photo?  flying into Diamond Head!  good job Nakahodo-san!  it was a wonderful week of surfing with you!   we saw an eagle ray hanging out under us.  and yesterday i saw a shark swimming in a wave.  nature is so beautiful!   Nakahodo-san told me he feels like he’s in good shape after all this surfing and foiling.  i told him this is the best exercise in the world.  can’t get this kind of results and happiness in any gym… my body is craving fuel so i went to the supermarket, bought some fuel, and came home to cook it.  here are some steamed vegetables.   and a nice New York steak for me. i like to cook my own steaks because i like it to come out exactly like this.  medium rare and super juicy!  good to see Toda-san back in Japan and back to work already.  i respect this guy for working so hard so he can play even harder.  that’s why we get along so well…when ever people ask me to take them to the West side of the island, i tell them “can we go in your car?”  haha.  this happens daily out there.  it’s called “smash and grab.”  smash the window, and grab your valuables.  no thank you for me…

Big South swell continues at Bowls…

Good morning Big Sunday 5:50am.

Biggest South swell of the year.  Huge!

Ala Moana 6′ sets and good!

Diamond Head double overhead and bumpy.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing and surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful surfing day!