super happy to surf with Atsushi-san today.  super cool surfer from Tokushima, Shikoku that loves to surf, and loves Hawaii.  we paddled out to Bowls and it was giant!   when the waves get overhead, the scene out here changes.  you got guys from the North shore, the West Side, and lots of professional legends coming out.  the pecking order is then decided.  i was so happy to see Mike Ho paddle out with the biggest smile like always.   Atsushi-san likes to surf rights, but since Bowls lefts were super good, he was going left all morning.   and flying down the line all the way to the inside.  i couldn’t keep up with him.   when Pipeline Master Mike Ho paddles out to any lineup, just sit back and watch this legend surf.  if he paddles for a wave, don’t even paddle.  it’s called surfers respect!  i’ve known Mike Ho and his younger brother World Champion Derek Ho since i was a teenager.  i surfed with these guys all over the North shore, South shore, and even in Japan.  all good memories that i still remember so clearly.  and i’ve seen this bottom turn hundreds of times from this angle.   so i knew this was coming next!  Mike turned 62 years old today so Happy Birthday dude.  when i get 62 years old, i hope to be doing turns like this too.  so inspired today… then Derek Ho got barreled right after this.  Derek always smiles and tells me how he still feels like a kid when he surfs.  he wants to catch every wave and he’s earned that… Atsushi-san wanted to eat an Acai Bowl so we went to the Cove Bar.  we had the most hilarious conversations.  i’m sure people in there were getting irritated at our loud laughing.  haha.  who cares… want to thank Paul for giving me this ice cold Kava.  my mouth was all numb and i was feeling so relaxed… then ate this big pastrami sandwich and got my power back.  i needed the power because right after this, i had to go straight back into the ocean! picked up Nakahodo-san and went flying.  oh, i mean foiling…

 i took Papa Yuuki-san surfing in the morning while Mama Mutsumi-san was watching little Ena-chan.  then the opposite after lunch.  a very good idea so everybody can be happy!  Mutsumi-san has been busy being a Mama so hardly has time to surf these days.  so i made sure she had enough to make up for those missed days..   and once again, the contest was going on so if you came near Bowls, you would get yelled at by Hawaiian Water Patrol.   so yeah, we had this part of Bowls all to ourselves.  Mutsumi-san loving our private surf session… i was loving our private surf session too!  too many unridden waves so i felt like i had to ride a few… this Mama surfs really good!  super calm and super smooth.  i was so happy to see this wonderful family surfing and smiling all day long…Mama and Papa talking turns surfing and enjoying the family life.  that is amazing family support that i love to see.  this is how to be a happy surf family!   for the past 25 years, i’ve been throwing kids into the air like this.  kids including all the Moniz kids.  it’s something every kid seems too like.  Ena-chan is no exception.  look at the excitement!!!  haha…  the homeless problem is getting pretty bad here in Hawaii.  just to own a business is pretty hard because homeless have rights.  you can’t tell them to leave, and you can’t make them leave.  kind of weird eating lunch when you have a homeless guy sleeping outside the window.   but once you get it, it’s all good.  worth the drive, and worth the walk.  Maui Mike’s has a great system.  they take your order and give you a card.  when they call it, your order is ready.  and you won’t find a juicier and healthier piece of chicken on this island.  it’s always worth the 45 minute drive…

Girls just wanna have fun!!!

Good morning 6am.

New South swell!  Coming up today, giant tomorrow!

Ala Moana head high and perfect.

Diamond Head overhead and bumpy.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing and foiling!

Have a wonderful day…