i haven’t gotten a big barrel like this in a long time.  so taking off on a steep wave, and pulling into a big tunnel like this made me super excited.  and i only had my 5’10 so i was hanging on for my life!   if you ever get to see or experience something like this, you will fall in love with the barrel.  nothing in the world beats this feeling.  absolutely nothing… i get shot out of the barrel, i pull out, and i fly over the back.  kind of like foiling but much safer.  haha.  yes, i haven’t gotten this excited in a very long time.  i’m going back to searching for the barrel.  and if there is no barrel, i’ll be on the foil.  haha…  the waves were almost double overhead, strong current, and nobody out.  so when Yano-san’s leash came off and he lost his board, i was amazed on how calm he was.  very calm, and very cool!  and just to make out to the lineup took about 30 duck dives, and lots of paddling.  very easy for this man… i follow surfers on the wave either behind them, or in front of them.  so when i can see them enjoying the moment, i enjoy it too.  only a surfer knows the feeling… found a DaFin floating in the ocean.  i was just happy that there wasn’t a leg attached to it.  it’s the same one the lifeguards use in Hawaii.  anyway, if it’s yours, give me a call and i’ll give it back to you.   more nice rides for Yano-san in blue Hawaii.  calm and cool!  good job Yano-san!

Shaka Ena-chan!  I’ll give you a ride anytime!!!

Good morning 5:30am.

South swell continues…  Much smaller than yesterday.

Ala Moana overhead sets and good.

Diamond Head 6′ sets for challengers.

Trade winds at 15mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!

 today was the biggest day of the year!!!  huge surf and kind of dangerous too.  took the boys out for the challenge of their lives!  these are the days you get the ride of your life!   we paddled out to Big Right’s and out here is locals only.  it’s been this way for the past 40 years.  the order in the lineup is rock solid and if you try to break the system, it will break you.  that’s why i love it out here!   i only wait for the biggest and best waves when i surf out here.  so i told Shoda-san “when you see me paddle for a wave, drop in and you’ll get the ride of your life!”  look at Shoda-san taking off on this huge set!   this is one happy man!  want to thank Garret Sugihara for giving Shoda-san a set wave too.  he was so happy to get a wave from a local!  anybody would be happy…  after a few waves, Shoda-san figured it out.  just sit a little inside of me, then when a big set comes, drop in and i’ll get the shot!  just like this!!!   one of the local boys said “wow, that’s cool!”   there is no other way to get a set wave at Big Right’s if you’re a Japanese tourist.  this is the only way.  haha… thank you Shoda-san and Hatta-san for a surfing with me at Big Right’s on Big Sunday!   then went for a nice hot pho for lunch… then went straight to pick up Yano-san.  he wanted to surf big waves too so i took him to someplace even bigger!  and on his very first wave, his leash came off.  haha.  keep calm Yano-san! omg, we scored!  today was one of the most exciting days in a while.  i forgot how good it feels to surf big waves, i forgot how good it feels to get barreled, and i forgot how happy surfing makes me feel.  tomorrow i’m putting away my foil and getting out my surfboard quiver!  it’s back to surfing for me so see you in the lineups!