after scoring so many good waves at Pop’s yesterday, we went straight back out there this morning.  Nakahodo-san had more waves and more flying.   i can’t believe how good Todasan got in just this past week!  i saw him do 3 nice cutbacks on this one wave.  then when he paddled back out, i told him “oh, i didn’t see your wave.”  haha… this is the perfect example on how to foil.  look forward and stay low! Nakahodo-san is getting good too!  by the end of this trip, he will be better than Toda-san.  haha.  just joking Todasan!   big smiles for the new foil bird!  it’s crazy how i feel like i’m air surfing these days.  the only thing is i don’t really need a wave.   just give me a small swell and i’ll surf it like i’m surfing a 5′ wave. isn’t Waikiki so beautiful!  i can’t believe how perfect this Summer has been so far… then passed by Diamond Head.  i asked Nakahodo-san if he wanted to take a break, then go surf it at sunset.  it will be much bigger, wilder, and crazier!  of course, he said yes… and yes, it turned out to be the best Diamond Head i’ve ever surfed.  thank you to the hurricane that sent us those 6′ groundswell waves.  so happy day!now it’s dinner time and i’m starving!  foods from Oki!  thank you Nakahodo-san!

 back to yesterday.  thanks to the East swell from the tropical storm, it was sending perfect swells into Pop’s.  long walls with very little people.  Takami-san was scoring. Nakahodo-san is one of my best examples of looking forward, bending your knees, and keeping your left hand up.  perfecto!  Toda-san is one of my best examples of never giving up!  finally!!!

the waves were perfect.  there was plenty for everybody.  i watched this Japanese guy catch 3 perfect waves and surfing it good.  i was stoked for him.  UNTIL….  after he just got a good wave, he paddled back out while Takami-san was taking off on the most perfect wave of the day.  the Japanese guy turned around inside her, paddled for the wave, and took off inside of her!  i couldn’t believe it!!!

then he had the nerve to kind of push her off the wave.  i never get mad but i was more than mad, i was freaking pissed!!!  he paddled back out and i yelled “WHERE YOU FROM???”  he said “Japan.”  is said “THIS IS NOT JAPAN!!!!  don’t come out here and snake a girl, any girl!  GO IN!!!!”  i was so mad because i see that kind of stuff in Japan, but i never ever want to see that here in Hawaii.   i kind of felt bad after but if i didn’t knock some sense into him, he might do that to somebody’s wife, girlfriend, or just any local guys chick.  then he won’t get yelled at, he will get punched in the face.  he’s lucky Toda-san is so happy foiling these days.  if that was last week when Toda-san was frustrated, things would have been different.  haha.   thank goodness a very wise man thought me to how to be calm and cool.   i always think about him when i’m ready to punch someone.  thank goodness…  anyway, i took a deep breath, cleared my mind, and paddled into my best wave of the day.   flew like a bird and was loving paradise!   after that, i seen Matsuda-san out.  now this is a very cool Japanese surfer.  always smiling, always good manners, and always lots of respect in Hawaii.  this guy is always welcomed here!  yes, i’m happy.  and no, i won’t let anybody ruin my wonderful day!

*being that i traveled to Japan so much, surfed the most localized spots, and have so many local friends, i feel like it’s my responsibility to educate Japanese surfers when they come to Hawaii.  it’s different here.  it’s all about respect, it’s all about sharing, and it’s all about Aloha.  i’ll just scold you, but some of my local friends here aren’t that nice.

If I’m dreaming, please don’t wake me up!

Good morning 5:50am.

Ala Moana head high and good.

Diamond Head high and bumpy.

East winds at 15mph.

Clouds, sun, and hopefully rainbows.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!