i was watching Seth’s heat and thinking to myself “wow, this kid is surfing in South Africa. i surfed J-Bay before Seth was even born! and now this kids is surfing against the worlds elite!
when people come up to me and talk about Seth, most say he’s a “natural.” that means able to adapt to any conditions, able to compete at any level, able to keep calm, and able to have the confidence for anything. i totally agree… now it’s Round 3 so time to become Super Natural!
i was so excited to take 9 year old Yui surfing this morning. the god-son of Nao-san so i already got a heads up about this kid. from the beginning, he was super calm, and super confident.
this was his very first wave of his life!!! popped right up and did everything exactly what i said. perfect everything!!!
his face was glowing right after his first ride. he kept his cool and kept his excitement within. kind of reminded me of how Seth was when he was this age.
i gave Yui a high five and from then on, it was wave after wave after wave. smile after smile after smile…
then this kid started paddling into waves on his own! super calm and super confident. it was like he was born to be in the ocean. one of the local Uncle’s paddled by and said “wow, that kid is a natural!”
Yui surfed so perfectly that he didn’t even fall. so as the coach i am, i made him fall on purpose. i pushed the nose down and watched him do a head flip over the board into the water. i did that on purpose because i wanted to see his reaction. and guess what? calm and cool! he got back up smiling and wanted more! haha.
good job Yui! i’m super proud of you! hope to surf with you again! but for now, go back to Japan and surf with Aunty Nao-san! you’re actually much calmer than her. haha. and thank you Megumi-san for letting me take Yui for his first surfing experience. this kids life will never be the same… because he’s a “natural!”
back to the food at the Nakamoto’s. Todasan first in line…
Kyle and Cathy just got back from Alaska for a fish/dive trip. they caught butterfish and you won’t believe how good it was! the best butterfish i’ve ever tried! 
and it went good along with the Molokai kalbi. 
and acid-free fresh pineapple from Papa Crow’s garden. this was super sweet and juicy! 
yesterday we ate some spicy seafood noodle soup. this is pretty amazing! 
when we paddled out to Diamond Head, i told Nakahodo-san to take his time and keep calm. the reason for that is because i saw solid 6′ sets and it wasn’t a longboard day. my friend can’t believe he even made it out. haha. 
Nakahodo-san caught a wave from the very outside and rode it all the way past me to the inside. so i got the perfect sunset photo! 
look how beautiful it was!!! so cool!
we came back up and watched the hurricane send more and more lines. there were only 5 local shortboarders and long boarder Nakahodo-san out. it’s pretty funny because when the waves are small, there is lots of ego’s and aggressive surfers in the lineup. but when it gets big like this, everybody seems like they have something else to do. my local friend out there said “i wonder where everybody is?” haha…
after laughing about getting such perfect waves every single day, my friend gave us 2 ice cold Big Wave beers! the timing couldn’t have been any better! 
then to Whole Foods for a healthy meal. 
i seen this guy on the table with his own rice cooker and hot pot. he was using all the plates and utensils from Whole Foods and eating his homemade meal right there. i looked at him and said “you’re classic!” he said “you support corporations, i support local farmers.” that was pretty funny, and also pretty true…
he even plugged in his rice cooker to Whole Foods electric outlet. haha. his meal was looking pretty dam good too! i’m sure this wasn’t the first time he’s done this…
Hurricane swell @ Diamond Head. You missed it!!!
