i saw this sign in a little restaurant in Molokai and it caught my eye.  “SLOW DOWN, HAPPINESS IS TRYING TO CATCH YOU.”   i really think it is so true!   i use to live a fast life and probably didn’t have enough time to enjoy it.  but now, my life is much slower and i’m appreciating every second of it.  you should try it because i’m telling you that it works… this is how you slow down and let happiness catch you.  Asayama-san and i hanging out at a very sacred spot on Molokai.  enjoying the sunset and enjoying the slow life.  happiness is right here!   then back to Oahu and using the concept of slowing down and enjoying the ride.   i couldn’t believe how good the waves were this morning.   see that girl behind looking at Asayama-san?  that’s why she fell.  Asayama-san knows that he’s supposed to be looking forward just like this.   perfect rides on his last day in paradise.   i had a wonderful time with this wonderful man.   16 days of surfing and living the wonderful slow island lifestyle.  going with the flow each and every day and seeing where Mother Nature took us.  and she took us on a very amazing ride each and every day!   this was Asayama-san’s last wave of this surf trip.  from here, it was straight to the airport.  at 70 years old, it will be a surf trip to remember… thank you Asayama-san for the wonderful time.  if i can be just like you when i’m 70 years old, that would be a dream.  surf, dive, travel, and enjoy life.  keep on inspiring us because you are our inspiration.  have a safe flight home and see you again soon!  then went to pick up the Keinosuke-san family and had amazing afternoon.  good job all you boys!!!

 walked into this house and noticed something really interesting.  what was that glass door in the corner? OMG!  it’s a sauna in the living room?   not a bad idea considering this is the view.  weird, but smart weird… back to yesterdays special day.  i have a new surf buddy!  thank you Mateus for making me so happy!   i think i traumatized this kid when i took him surfing when he was 1 year old.  and he didn’t trust me at all after that.   haha.  but now, i earned my trust back and surfing just re-entered this kids life.  he can’t wait to go back again… i’m pretty sure he’s going to tell all his friends in school that he went surfing.  that’s all he talks about now.  haha… when i see the word “joy,”  it makes me think about Mateus.  this kid brings me so much joy!   i’m pretty sure this kid is going to be a comedian when he grows up.  he makes me laugh all day long… and when this kid grows up, he’s going to be making some trouble too.  it’s in the blood…  haha.   i took my foil out and tried this different angle with Asayama-san.  much lower so no drone can copy this.  stoked…age is only a number.  it doesn’t matter if you’re 5 or 70.  so long you can enjoy each precious moment, you’re living the dream life.  and if you stay positive, things will only get better…

In the Bloodline…

Good morning 5:30am.

North shore 3-5′ and coming up.  Getting clean and good.

Ala Moana waist high and good.

Diamond Head chest high and fun.

Trade winds at 20mph.

Sunny and warm.

Going surfing and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!