i got up at 4:30am and was texting my foil buddy till 6:30am.  went to get a couple waves at Diamond Head and had a great time.  then came home for my tax appointment when Mateus was waiting outside my house and said “unko, i want to go surfing.”  i asked him “ok, when?”  he said “now!”   i cancel my tax appointment, throw a board and Mateus in the truck and head to Bowls.  there is no way in the world i’m going to miss this opportunity.  i took Mateus surfing when he was 1 year old and he hasn’t surfed since then.   5 years later and now this kid is finally ready.  i asked him why he wanted to go surfing today and he said “because my whole family surfs.”  haha…  this was his first wave in 5 years.  look at his face!  haha… after the ride, he was so stoked!!!   i changed him, then he said “now i’m a surfer.  and i’m hungry, can we eat tofu?”  haha… so after taking a 5 year old kid surfing, i went to pick up the 70 year old kid for an evening session.   Asayama-san being so calm and confident.  after surfing all those crazy waves we’ve been surfing, Bowls was way too easy for him.   i came into the shorebreak and saw something strange under the water.  picked it up and now i have a new Casio watch!  score!   remember this fish from yesterday?  well, it was swimming in the ocean and now he’s on the dinner table.  a wonderful healthy and fresh dinner to close the day.  thank you Mateus and Asayama-san for making my day so special.  i’m so happy and can’t wipe this big smile off my face!!!  goodnight boys…

 this Bakery won an award for Best of the Best.  but in my opinion, it is also the localist of the localist.   Blueberry Cream Cheese.  only in Molokai…  and the best grass fed beef and deer in the world.   brought fresh from Molokai Livestock… oh, i found the best place in Hawaii to buy the freshest oysters too!  only $1/each!   i’ve had this oyster shucker for years.  and it’s never let me down… if you haven’t tried my fresh grilled oyster, you’re missing out.  it’s so juicy and creamy… now back to the fresh deer from Molokai.  it’s so fresh that you can eat it raw!   but sprinkling a little Hawaiian salt with some rosemary will add some amazing flavors… cook it on high heat on the grill and eat it medium rare, just like this.  if you ever tried this, you will never eat beef again… but since we bought beef, why not grill a ribeye steak too?   another amazing natural piece of meat.  gosh, i can’t believe how good i’ve been eating recently… i came home the other day and had dinner with Mateus.  he loves tofu and eats it plain without shoyu.  i hope someday i can take this kid to Japan with me.  then he can have all the tofu he wants… i was working on my computer and Mateus came to sit on my lap and said “unko Kirby, i want to go surfing.”  what???  omg, i was so happy to hear that!  so yeah, that day coming really soon…

Yesterday morning:  Keeping calm and enjoying nature…

Good morning 5:50am.

North shore 3-5′ and bumpy.

Ala Moana waist high and good.

Diamond Head chest high and bumpy.

Trade winds at 15mph today.

Sunny and warm.

Going foiling and surfing.

Have a wonderful day!