omg, did you see the Blood Moon last night?  it was cool but this mornings full moon was even cooler!  i was driving to the beach and this was my view all the way to Waikiki!  picked up Kuromiya-san for Day 2 Boot Camp.  paddling out as the sun was rising was beautiful.  and omg, the waves were absolutely perfect!  bigger and cleaner than yesterday!  so happy…  Kuromiya-san is surfing better and better.  he’s using the rail more so that equals to speed, power, and flow… saw Chizu getting some nice sets.  this girl is always so stoked on surfing! imagine coming to Hawaii for your first time and surfing with this view.  it don’t get any better… by the end of Boot Camp Day 2, the results were pretty amazing.  i’d say a few levels up for this man!   Chizu-san asked me if i was rehabilitating my foot.  i told her, this is my rehab.  surfing fixes my mind, and once my mind is fixed, the rest will follow.  my foot still hurts, but my mind is completely healed after today… one happy surfer!thank you Kuromiya-san for the wonderful 2 days of surfing.  good waves, good improvements, and good smiles.  keep on surfing…

 want to thank Ohata-san for all the treats!  Japanese pizza, yeah!!! i can’t describe how good it was to stand up after so long.  my foot was feeling better, my mind is healed, and i could actually feel “FREE” again!  so i came home and was looking forward to my Philippine Dream trip.  i had my tickets organized, hotels lined up, friend in the Philippines buying supplies for the island,   and i was ready to leave this afternoon straight after work.  a remote jungle island with nobody around for hours was sounding really good.   then late last night after being all packed and ready to go, i looked again at my cut and told myself “um, better rethink this trip.”  going to the jungle with diseases, mosquitos, malaria, and other crazy things out of my control.  then stopping over in Manila which isn’t the cleanest is kind of risky.  i’ve had little tiny cuts and even mosquito bites get infected in the Philippines before.   so i close my eyes, take a deep breath, and just cancel my trip.  i crumple up my itinerary and throw it in the rubbish can.  am i bummed?  absolutely not.   things happen for a reason and i’m a true believer of that.  maybe my propeller plane would have crashed?  maybe i would have gotten attacked by a lion in the jungle?  or maybe i would have gotten kidnapped by terrorists?  or maybe my foot would have gotten infected and had to get cut off?  who knows?   this is part of my life.  this is how i learn.  this is what makes me stronger.  life goes on…

Another beautiful day in Hawaii…

Good morning 5:30am.

North shore small and clean.  Almost flat.  Coming up tomorrow.

Ala Moana waist-chest high and perfect.  Super good.

Diamond Head head high and super super good.

Light winds so perfect morning conditions.

Sunny and warm.

Parade in Waikiki from 9am so traffic jam.

Going surfing.

Have a wonderful day!