gosh, i feel like a fish out of the water. i’m having fun with land activities, but i’m really missing the ocean. 
this poor fish got eaten sweet/sour style. 
and this one got eaten steamed style. want to thank my brother for giving me these 2 very expensive fish! 
and want to thank Mori-san for sending me the Taiwan surf report. omg, i’m so jealous!!!
so this morning, i load up my foil and head to the beach. i was so excited to foil again since it’s been 15 days since the last time. 
i pull up to Diamond Head and got ready. then after a couple steps down the mountain, my foot couldn’t bear the pain. so i jumped back in the truck and went to my secret spot. i had to walk backwards up and down the hill. then i get out to the lineup and nobody was out. i paddle for my first foil wave since January 1st. i try to pop up and when i put my left foot forward, it bent backwards and i thought my cut opened up again. it felt like it ripped open! i screamed so loud and couldn’t stand up. so i paddled in and called it a day. i was kind of bummed out…
then i come home and Mateus was playing at my house! i was so happy to see him. he asked me how my foot was and gave me a big loving hug. right there, all the pain went away. it’s amazing how a little love can heal all the pain…
i’ll never forget the time Seigo-san came to Hawaii and brought his famous Marutaya Ramen from Wakayama. i was surfing at Bowls that morning and invited everyone up for lunch. 
whoever came, scored… then we tried to do it again the next year but the Airport Customs in Hawaii took it away. bummer…
this Japanese lady named Marie Kondo has become an instant superstar in America. she goes around and teaches people how to get rid of things and tidy up. so basically, living more simply. so after watching a couple of her shows, it made me want to tidy up too.
look how much i ended getting rid of! this is more than half of my clothes.
and now, less is great.
and much more tidy. i can’t wait to get rid of more things…
Where is this? I want to go!
