Stitches Removal

January 18, 2019

had an amazing time today with this cool group of surfers! uploading the photos now so will post it soon. i’m so happy to meet such nice people like this all the time!!! i can’t believe how naive people can be. guys swimming up to the whale carcass and playing on it? and others trying to cut out the teeth? this is a total disrespect of nature. this is not only disrespectful, this is illegal in Hawaii. very sad to see things like this… it’s been 15 days since i got my stitches and when i looked at it today, the stitches were covered by new skin forming. usually i take out stitches myself, but not this time because i knew it would be painful. i was screaming!!! the doctor had to dig it out and it didn’t feel too good. some butterfly tape so it won’t rip open when i surf or do yoga. doctor said to take it easy and everything should be ok. but it doesn’t look ok! want to say goodbye to my friend Marcus Biju. he died this morning at Pipeline doing what he loved to do, which is getting barreled. so sad to lose another cool Hawaiian. thank you for the years of aloha Marcus…

Great White Hawaii

January 18, 2019

this is when Masemune-kun was a little kid…

then a couple years later, Masemune-kun became a man… Satoko-san loving the sun in Hawaii. Mari-chan loving the sun in Okinawa. Ocean Ramsey is amazing. she made the effort to go out to the whale carcass and free dive with the sharks. then along came Mrs. Great White! shit, i wish i was there!!! heard the carcass is coming back closer to Oahu again so i’ll probably be out there looking for it very soon…this Chinese man sold one of his kidneys so he could buy an iPhone. after complications, he’s now bedridden for the rest of his life. i hope he at least got the iPhone X. i’m supposed to be here next week. on a secluded island fronting perfect waves. with my foot being the way it is, i’m not sure if i can make it. i told my friend to be on standby because once i heal, i’m on the next flight there! just a couple of friends and pure nature. i’ve been trying to make it here for the past 7 years and hopefully everything works out this time…hey, please stop sending me photos like this. like is said in my last email. “if there’s a will, there’s a way!”