Da Bus, Whale Back, BBQ, and 007!

 wow, nowhere is safe anymore.   spent the beautiful morning out in the ocean.   and came across the whale carcass again.  last week they towed it out to sea but the south/west winds brought it right back in.  almost to the same exact spot.   the sharks in Hawaii must  be very happy and very full after a week of free meals.   these guys came to look for sharks too.  the yacht club bought a new BBQ grill for its members.  so Kekoa fired it up and grilled some ribs.   it was excellent!!!  soft and juicy!  thank you Kekoa and Maki-san for the relaxing morning out at sea.  super good therapy for me!

then spent the evening in Waikiki driving around like James Bond 007.   the golden sunrise, the full moon, and the fresh air was amazing…

Fourteen waves per minute…

opps, sorry for got to post this.  here it is… Ohata-san is a very nice man from Hiroshima.  so cool to finally meet him because he knows all my surfer friends from Hiroshima.  and all are so cool!  Ohata-san on the shortboard having a great time!  Ana-san is originally from the Philippines.  she is super energetic and super positive.  her first time surfing but looking like she’s done this before.  Ban-san surfed for his first time too.  look how stoked he was!   yesterday only the strong can survive.  it was totally onshore and the waves were non-stop.  i counted 14 waves per each minute.   times that by 120 minutes which we surfed and that comes out to 1,680 waves.   so it was pretty dam hard getting back out.  but we all did it over and over… Ana-san on her last wave in.  had a wonderful talk about the Philippines.  wonderful culture and wonderful people… Ban-san was smiling the whole time.  i’m pretty sure he’ll be back surfing sometime soon… Ohata-san paddled over and through about a 200 waves.  very strong and determined…then i let him try my longboard on the way in.  nice ride!   Ohata-san, Tomoe-san, Ban-san, and Ana-san, thank you for the wonderful surfing and entertaining conversation.  please enjoy the rest of your Hawaiian vacation and see you guys somewhere in this amazing world!

January 18, 2019 Hawaii Surf Report

My beautiful everyday drive to work…  Love it…

Good morning 6:30am.

North shore 3-5′ and bumpy.

Ala Moana waist high and clean.

Diamond Head chest high and best in town.

Light winds becoming cool North winds at 10mph.

Sunny and very cool day.

Going to the ocean.

Have a wonderful day!