i finally got to foil today!  i haven’t foiled since 1/1/19 so you could imagine now stoked i was.  i paddled out to Diamond Head mid-morning and had it to myself.  i’m back and very happy!   speaking of Diamond Head, here is Fukushima-san surfing Taiwan’s Diamond Head.  so stoked for you dude!    walking on crutches for 2 weeks really taught me something.  i learned that there are really nice people that helped me, and there are not so nice people that didn’t help me.  imagine getting a door slammed on your face when walking in a store?   makes me want to become a better person after all of this… sitting at a full on local bar watching the UFC fight tonight.  then someone comes from behind and taps my shoulder.  what??  Tony walked in by himself to watch the fight too!  i had no idea he was coming!  it’s crazy how us locals all think the same…had a great time with family and friends.  life would suck without them.  thank you girls for the wonderful time.  get home safely and see you around!

 woke up to this beautiful photo sent by Takami-san.  the beautiful Mt. Fuji!  always making me so happy! and same morning waking up to Tokyo by Nao-san.  look at Mt. Fuji in the background!  so stoked!  thanks guys for putting a smile on my face first thing in the morning… i was hanging out in Waikiki for a couple hours right at sunset.  it was so beautiful!  and so fun watching all the people walking by.  everybody looked so happy to be in paradise… omg, the waves are perfect for the foil!   i took this photo of Ben Aipa 8 years ago.  Ben use to be my surfing coach when i was a teenager.  he taught me so many things about contest, style, respect, ocean, and waves.  he was very strict to me and maybe this is why i’m strict when teaching people too.   and i raise my hands like this too when my students don’t do what i say.  haha…Netflix came out with this documentary series called “Murder Mountain.”   it’s about a surfer from San Diego that disappeared in the mountains in California.  he went to work for a few years in the marijuana farms and never made it back out.  it was very interesting and very sad at the same time.  nobody comes ahead when it comes to drugs.  and there is no such thing as “easy money….”

Lucky you live in Hawaii:  Every Friday night at the Hilton Hawaiian Village…

Good morning 6:20am.

North shore 1-3′ and fun.

Ala Moana knee high and clean.

Diamond Head chest high and little bumpy.

Trade winds at 15mph.

Morning rain becoming sunny and warm.

Going foiling.

Have a wonderful day!