Amazon boss and richest man in the world Jeff Bezos is getting a divorce after 25 years of marriage.   in America, that means his wife is entitled to half of everything he owns.   he’s worth $160 billion so that’s 17315840000000 Japanese Yen.  i’m sure she ain’t complaining.  and i’m sure if it wasn’t for her, he wouldn’t have all that money anyway.  so after the divorce, she will probably the richest woman in the world automatically.  great for her… Shunsuke-kun is a really good kid.  very respectful to others and very ambitious.  this kid will make it in anything he strives for.   thank you Shunsuke-kun for the Patagonia towel hand towel! one of my new years resolutions was to exercise every day.  so for now, i just have to exercise with one leg.  here is my one legged plank pose.   when the blood gets rushing to my foot, i feel like a monster is going to pop out of my cut!   hurts so bad, but no pain, no gain…

Ala Moana yesterday.  Super good!

Good morning 6:15am.

North shore still big at 8-10′.   Big and barreling.

Ala Moana chest high and good.

Diamond Head head high and better.

Light winds so perfect morning conditions.

Sunny and warm.  Storm coming tomorrow.

Going to search for the perfect wave.

Have a wonderful day!

omg, if there was any day to come back to the ocean, it was today!  the waves came up and it was the best day of the year!!!  calm, clean, and perfect…

a new year and meeting new people is always so cool.  Funai-san is from Yamaguchi and we had a great time surfing together.  he just got married 2 days ago and now is his first surf session in Hawaiian waters…

beautiful bottom turn!   this is how you do it!

i think Funai-san caught over 20 waves this morning.  super energetic and super stoked.

nice turn!

i think we were the happiest guys in the whole ocean!   Funai-san was so happy to surf in Hawaii, and i was so happy just to surf.

hot pho on this cool day…

just like Vietnam…

the big North Shore swell sent swells that wrapped all the way to our South shore.  my new year started today and i’m so happy to be back in the water…