A Models Life

 finding more photos from my older hard drive that i totally forgot about.  whenever i’d get a job from a Japanese magazine as a photographer, i was always fortunate.  but to be able to travel to Japan and work as a photographer shooting my niece Kelia Moniz, it was a dream.   so yeah, i’d have to say i’m a pretty lucky uncle… and the support Toda-san and Takami-san have given me and my family for all these years is priceless.  i’ll never forget their generosity and kindness for the rest of my life… my foot is getting better, especially after i put some lotion on it.  so instead of lizard skin feet, now you have sexy silky man feet.  haha… i want to thank Dr. Tanaka-san, Dr. Keinosuke-san, and all the other people for the valuable information you sent to me.   i’m taking antibiotics now so hopefully things will only get better.   can’t wait to surf with all you guys when i get better. thank you again…

my friend sent me this post DJ Minoru just posted on his instagram.  funny photo of once a young surfer trying to make a living in Japan back in the 1990’s.  haha.   the model on the left is Kumi-chan and the model on the right is Malia Jones.  i actually got a pretty big paycheck for that.  getting paid to stand in between 2 beautiful girls?  i would have done it for free.  haha…

January 14, 2019 Hawaii Surf Report

The ocean is my medicine…

Good morning 6am.

North shore 4-6′ and little bumpy. Cleaning up.

Ala Moana waist to chest high and clean. Little disorganized swell.

Diamond Head shoulder high and good.

Cool morning and warm afternoon.

Light morning wind and afternoon onshore breezes.

Going back to the ocean.  Yeah!

Have a wonderful day!

Camouflage Dove

 took some video and sent it to Guy Hagi and crew.  stoked to see them run it last night.   things that happen naturally like this is good for the ocean.  it keeps the tiger sharks stomachs full.  and that’s good. i was updating my software and then my hard drive just breaks!  omg!  i lost all my photos and video from July 2017 till yesterday.   kind of bummed out but there is nothing i can do about it.   but i do have my blog so some arel saved… found this one from 1992 in Shikoku.  i can’t believe how skinny i was!   and found some when i was in Wakayama.  priceless…teaching kids how to surf is a treat for me.  i just love it from start to finish!

and want to thank Dove Wetsuits for my custom wetsuit.  this fish swam by me because he probably thought i was his mate.  but this mate was looking for dinner so had to take him home to feed my family.   hopefully can get in the deep blue water again soon…