Enjoying the ride…

Good morning 7am.
North shore chest high and very clean.
Ala Moana waist high and good.
Diamond Head chest high and fun.
Light winds so perfect morning conditions.
Sunny and warm.
Going to read a book and watch a movie.
Have a wonderful day!

people think i’m crazy. i don’t think so at all. i just consider myself a hard worker just like how my Grandpa was. rain, flu, hurt, hurricane, stitches, or no matter what, i’m showing up for work just like how Grandpa did. i don’t like to be disappointed, so i don’t like to disappoint.

so the net few days i took my vacation days off. time for myself to reset, relive, and revive. tomorrow i’ll download all the wonderful photo from todays morning and afternoon surf. but for now, i’m going to sip on some Super Rare Old whisky that Kaneko-san gave me…

and also going to snack on some treats Nakahodo-san gave me. thanks guys!

my brother crashed our Buggy a few months ago. lucky he didn’t die! after that, it was time to let go and look for another toy. that toy just arrived this afternoon. and omg, she’s a beauty!!! a dream car we both dreamed of as kids… so for the start of 2019, you can say that 2 brothers are now living their childhood dream… see you on the road!

wow, the waves were super good yesterday! perfect for Ueki-san’s dream Hawaiian session…

my bloody foot doesn’t affect my photography skills. haha… this photo is unreal!!!

and i can ride along shooting too.

Ueki-san was a very lucky man. surfing perfect waves for 2 hours with only one other surfer out is a dream for surfers. i watched him ride at least 20 perfect waves…

and i couldn’t pass up some myself. bodyboarding on a longboard! yeah!

and so many unridden barreling waves. where is everybody???

even though i didn’t want to ride waves because of my foot, i ended up riding a lot…

i’m always looking out into the ocean. i see a little dot way on the outside. i knew it was a tourist surfer that got swept out to sea by the strong winds. and i knew there was no way he was going to make it back to the beach by himself.

so i paddle out and this guy had no idea what danger he was in. unlike a pool with barriers, the ocean is endless. people go missing all the time here and he could have been the next whether he knew it or not.

ended up being a Japanese tourist. he said he came from the Outrigger Waikiki hotel and was trying to paddle back. what? we were at Ala Moana dude! i told him there was no way he would make it back. so put your legs back on your board and lets go in. pulled him to the beach at Bowls and told him to walk back. be careful guys, the ocean can take your life in minute…

then paddled back out and watched Ueki-san scoring more and more waves!

you surfed so good Ueki-san! please tell Azumi-san and the boys at Freeside Surf i said hello! hope to surf with all you guys someday!!!