I can’t surf, but I can still be happy!
Good morning 6:15am.
North shore coming down. 3-5′ and good.
Ala Moana waist high and clean.
Diamond Head head high and super windy.
Strong trade winds at 25mph.
Sunny and windy.
Going surfing and surfing.
Have a wonderful day!
last night my foot was throbbing! total pain and totally swollen. i couldn’t even walk in my house.
Mateus came over to bring some crutches. he said “are you ok Uncle?” of course i wasn’t ok, but i said “yes, thank you sweetie.” just the tone of his voice made me feel so warm…
thank goodness i have a little nurse in the house. i couldn’t have done it without her.
woke up this morning and picked up Hirano-san and Taki-san.
we did a drive around the East part of the island and had a great time. i just love to check Sandy Beach in the morning…
stopped by Waimanalo Beach Park which was ranked #1 most beautiful beach in the United States of America!
had a great time taking, driving, and eating. thank you guys for the wonderful morning. see you bright and early tomorrow for some long rides…
i woke up at 5am and taped my foot up. saran wrap and duck tape is the best! my foot was in total pain. the doctor prescribed me “pain killers” but i refused to take it. i don’t like putting addicting chemicals into my body…
surfed this afternoon with Masaru-san and Hiyo-kun. as soon as i entered the ocean, all the pain went away! i can’t believe how amazing it felt to be back!
then went to surf with Nakahodo-san later in the evening. i caught some very long waves. i didn’t have to stand up to feel the freedom of riding the ocean. and i don’t need a pain killer pill to erase my pain when the ocean can do that naturally…
left home at 7am with a throbbing foot, and came home at 6:30pm with a happy face.
**want to thank all the people who called and texted me about my injury. no, it wasn’t from foiling like you all thought. i’m all good now and will take a vacation very soon. can’t go to the beach so i’ll go somewhere to eat some good food and enjoy some amazing culture. and an onsen on the way would be cool. haha…
so happy to see my friends excel in what ever the choose to do. Yumi-chan is teaching yoga in a famous spiritual temple in Kyoto. super power spot!
next time i got to Kyoto, i’m taking her class for sure! good to see you smiling Yumi-chan!
and my Mexican amigo Satoko shaping her own board? really? that’s so cool!
Satoko is an artist and has so much talent. all of her paintings throughout the years are bright, happy, and very heartwarming.
good job shaping your board, and good job on the artwork.
i’m ordering a clear foil board and taking it to Mexico for some amazing custom artwork. see you soon Amigo!
right before the New Year, i was hanging out for a calm night with calm people. then Don Julio walked in and the crazy party got started! haha…
i showed the hole in my leg to my nephews and you should have seen their faces! and you should have seen my face when i saw it too. i felt like throwing up! and still do!!! thank goodness it wasn’t my head!!!
